2002 Ford F150 no start, no crank

ford
f150

#1

2002 f150 harley davidson no start no crank. checked fuses, relays. turn start can only hear relay under dash. lights come on but no movement on dash cluster. no crank or start.


#2

Any chance that you might have a dead battery ? It seems that would be the first thing to check .


#3

Battery is good


#4

Just for arguments sake , how do you know the battery is good and that you also have good solid connections.


#5

Battery is good, replaced cam shaft position sensor, pcv valve and starter solenoid


#6

Tested with digital meter @12.4vdc


#7

It is possible for a battery to show 12 volts and still not have enough cold cranking amps to start a vehicle . Instead of guessing and throwing parts why not get a battery pack and see if it will start. That way you will know for sure if it is battery related. I had this same situation once.


#8

I Will attempt now


#9

Well jump starter a no go. Bumped under hood fuse box and dash cluster response, attempt to start, back to Previous conditions. Wiggle diode and intermittent action to cluster. Attempt to start negative results


#10

When you turn the key to “start” position, are you getting power at the starter solenoid?

does it start in neutral . . . ?


#11

What diode???

Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even

if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be

allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be

enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the

starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the

lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.

Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.

Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the negative cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and re-tighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.

Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.

Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!

Yosemite