Hi. Der. I have a 20v black top. Oil pressure OK. No nock. Revert over Rev. Driving at 80km. Conrod thrown out on block.
You are telling us your engine self destructed. Probably time to junk your car.
I have no idea what that is or where to look for one.
I suspect this is not a U.S. user. I’ve seen the “black top” phrase used for previous Corolla generations - the 2001 U.S. model is not a black top.
Regardless, I cannot imagine it’s worth repairing either.
There are a great many important details missing that are necessary for determining the cause of the catastrophic failure. It’s possible that tearing down the engine can determine the cause but not a certainty. I once replaced an engine that threw a rod because the automatic transmission had locked up in 1st gear and the driver was determined to merge into 65 mph traffic. The driver was totally deaf.
And given that it’s far out of warranty, unless you lent your car to someone and intend to sue them for breaking it, determining the cause is kind of irrelevant. New engine or have it towed to the scrap yard.
There are no other rational alternatives, and unless the rest of the car is in excellent condition, I’m not even sure if a new engine makes good economic sense.
There’s only one scenario in which it’s worth repairing this car . . .
op goes to pick-a-part on 1/2 price weekend and removes a good engine himself, and also installs it himself
if you have to pay somebody else to locate an engine and install it, forget it
+1, assuming that such things exist in the OP’s unknown country…
I looked on line. It’s a JDM engine. There’s one available with a 5 speed manual for $1900. Also, there’s an engine block for $600. You might get them for a bit less.
Unless the car’s in showroom condition, it doesn’t rate a $1900 jdm engine
Going with just block is a very big risk, in my opinion. Who’s to say the existing cylinder head’s in good shape?
A connecting rod only goes through the block for these reasons.
Excess wear and/or very high miles.
Lack of oil or oil pressure due to wear or oil sludging.
Excessive RPMs; exacerbated and with a lower RPM level due to wear.
Metallurgical failure. The odds of this are so low I hate to even suggest it.
Some more info might help. Total miles on the car, bought new or used, and the often unknown question of if this is a used car has it been run out of oil in the past or run chronically low on oil all the time?
Twenty years old and with a scrap metal engine means its junk yard time IMO.
And it appears the person is not in the US so if that is a US price that really does not mean much.
Maybe, maybe not. He didn’t say in the original post, and poor command of the American language is not necessarily a reason to think they live somewhere else. There is a JDM market in the US.
There’s a business just a few miles down the road from me which sells jdm engines
that’s literally the only thing they do, except install those engines, if you pay them to do so
They’ve been there a very long time, and it’s a huge property, so I imagine they’ve done okay
That said, I still don’t think this 2001 Corolla rates a $1900 engine
Do most US residents talk about “driving at 80km”?
My car is over heating toyota corolla
Instead of tagging onto someone else’s thread, you need to start your own thread, and you need to include vital information such as…
- Model year
- Odometer mileage
- Whether the engine overheated once, or whether it has occurred multiple times
- What you did when you observed that it was overheating (examples: continued driving, immediately pulled over and shut off the engine, etc.)
- What measures you have taken since the overheating incident(s) (examples: checked and refilled coolant, checked for coolant leaks, verified whether the cooling fans are operational, checked the level and condition of the motor oil, etc.)