2000 Volvo S70

I acquired just over 2 years ago a Volvo S70, which had presented with a HOST of issues. Purchased with about 120K miles on it, now has 155K. I’ve done the following: 11/16/11: battery cable (almost burnt up fuse box), ABS module noted as showing signs of failure ($1000+repair), 8/25/11: auxiliary drive belt replaced & coolant reservoir, 5/12/11 CVR, fuel relay, PNP switch replaced: 4/20/11: wiring harness, throttle body, gasket, ETM replaced. I’ve also done rack & pinion steering (twice, as the rebuilt unit disintegrated too; non-Volvo mechanic for this) I’ve also done brakes/tires/a few headlights - this may not seem like a lot, but I’m in real estate, so reliability is a huge factor for me. Does/can anyone give me an idea if I just happen to have a problematic Volvo? Was 2000 not a good year? Would YOU continue to put money into this car, or would you opt out? It’s a business decision, despite the fact I like it as it’s a safe vehicle, and comfortably fits clients over 6’ tall. All input welcome!

There are a lot of safe vehicles that are a lot more reliable. Volvo did pioneer the crush zone in its bodies that made them the benchmark for safety for a number of years, but now everybody uses them.

A good minivan would be a versatile vehicle for hauling clients around. If you are really partial to sedans, a Buick Park Avenue would be a good choice, as would a Grand Marquis, Crown Vic or any Caddy.

SUV’s did not get the crush zones until recently so if you go that route, you will need one thats fairly new.

I guess thats all up to you on this one. Its a shame that you don’t try to do some of the mechanical upkeep yourself as of course you would save a TON and a half of money. But otherwise it doesn’t sound like its doing too badly…see how long she stays trouble free after all of that and then decide… It should go for a long while without needing anything methinks…

I guess these guys are right though and it seems like you do not wrench on the vehicle yourself…that’d be a different story if you did. But the guys make a good point. See how it holds up after you have done all that work…maybe she’s done nickel and diming you ? If it acts up again then listen to the guys… I’f I had a choice, I’d rather be in a 12 Yr old Honda rather than a VUVU

If you need relaible transportation a 12-year-old Volvo would be at the bottom of my list. Find something newer and more reliable. Take a look at the Consumer Reports car buyers guide for ideas.

On average, Volvos are really no more or less safe than other cars. It’s not the 1970s any more.

My vote is with texases. A Volvo that old isn’t likely to be reliable. It will certainly cost a lot to repair when it does break, as you’ve probably already discovered. I’d move on if at all possible.

Because this is for business use, leasing may be financially advantageous, unlike for most people, so make sure you investigate your possible deductions there.

My experience with a '98 V70XC and a 2000 V70XC would indicate you’ve done OK so far. In reality you have perhaps one of the most problematic cars and also one of the most expensive to repair cars of all time. If you keep it you can expect more repairs and more expensive repairs in the future. I gave up trying to keep my Volvo repaired and sold it. It was killing my budget. I figured over 5 years I averaged just over $2,000 a year for repairs. Stuff like new tires and brakes were not considered repairs. Simply a very expensive car to own and it was in the shop on average of 2 to 3 times a year.

I have 2000 Volvo S70 with engine oil pressure problem. The volvo dealer states they do not know why there is no oil pressure going to engine. The car has been maintained religiously. Thought of towing to independent mechanic for second opinion?

People often forget that a big part of safety IS reliability. Getting stranded at the worse possible place and time, can easily compromise your safety. An unreliable Volvo is unsafe and a good reason in itself to dump it and replace. I could rationalize the decision based on that factor alone.

One problem with lion9car’s advise to lease, you just never know how many miles you’ll put on your car when you’re driving people everywhere, so you could wind up spending more on a vehicle when it’s time to turn it in in mileage penalties(35k+ miles in 2 years…).

Talk to a tax advisor and see if you couldn’t write off the payments on a new car on your taxes since you’re in real estate. Then choose a vehicle that doesn’t seem as upscale as your Volvo; a Camry or Accord or Explorer depending on what type of vehicle you want.
You don’t want to look TOO upscale when you pull up to their house to pick them up. If I had a real estate agent pick me up in a Mercedes, for instance, I’d start off with a super low bid, or even dismiss them altogether, as the agent would appear to be doing quite well and can afford to take a smaller commission or can miss out on this one sale.
Someone comes to pick me up in a minivan or an Impala, I’d probably be more apt to make a higher bid than the Mercedes agent.