That harness pigtail may be the key. If that doesn’t do it, look further upstream for another poor connection between the battery and the fuel pump. Good luck and please let us know what happens. You are not alone in having this problem.
Okay and I definitely will let everyone know what I come up with. Itll get changed out sunday.
Not necessarily . . .
We have hundreds or thousands of GM vehicles in our fleet
And some of them have repeated fuel pump failures . . . every 4 - 5 years, like clockwork . . . and they have always gotten the upgraded pigtail as needed. So what I’m saying is that when they came in for their 2nd or 3rd or 4th fuel pump replacement, the pigtail had already been upgraded years ago
I personally happen to think the parts aren’t particularly high quality
We also have lots of Fords in our fleet . . . and the same trucks don’t experience repeated fuel pump failure. And the fuel pump kits do NOT come with upgraded pigtails
db4690 I am willing to try almost anything so I dont have to keep tapping on the tank in order to get it to start up when it decides to act up. I have that harness already installed on my truck but I plan on changing it to a newer one then check to see if we have any electrical issues. I got into an accident in May where the truck fell on my face so I dont want to keep having to drop the tank nor do I want to cut a whole to access it from the top. Lol
I agree. I had the same fuel pump issues with my 89 Riviera. Just about every year almost to the day it would fail and I always had the OEM pump and harness and relay replaced. There was no solution for whatever reason. Even had all the wiring replaced to the computer and still the pumps failed. I used to carry a 5 pound hammer and a 2x4 to pound the tank with to get it started again. Yep and $500 to $1000 a pop. So yeah all the comments are well meaning but nothing worked for me. Glad to hear it was just up to the 2000 model years but still if I ever had a pump failure again in a GM, I’d be trading cars.
I was told I needed to do that instead of keeping the issue alive in my driveway. I will try a few more things but hopefully it doesn’t come to that for you.
I can here Click and Clack now…
Is this an automatic? Cause if so your days off crawling under the vehicle could be over! An automatic means you don’t have a clutch and THAT means you have room to add another pedal. I envision a system of cables and pullys, along with a wooden mallet, such that when you press the new pedal the mallet taps the tank for you. Check with your local high school marching band-they should have the parts you need.
No
The problem extends to much newer models, as well, easily into the mid-2000s
So the question that I come to has no one figured out what this issue is at all? It’s almost 20 years later …
This pump draws a lot of amperage. So I would look at the pump relay; the wiring connections from the relay to the pump; and the wiring from the relay to the battery. I would be looking for a voltage drop from the battery to the pump. I don’t know if there is any way to read the voltage at the pump or the pig tail. If there isn’t I would scrap the insulation on an old pig tail; hook it up; and measure the voltage at the lead to the pump.
A DC motor will not live long if it has to run at low voltage.
From the original post it seemed that 4 fuel pumps have been installed recently. Four fuel pumps in 20 years is a lot but not unheard of, perhaps it is time to replace the fuel pump once again and this time with a quality part. This thread has been difficult to follow.
Now I have noticed that the battery voltage tends to dip when using the power windows or turning the factory radio off and on. I will definitely call my mechanic to look into this for sure… I’ve noticed the dip but never thought about it to necessarily look into it until now because I thought it was coming from the audio system placed in the truck however it’s no longer in the truck and it’s still doing it!