Okay, so i am working on a 1999 Honda prelude, as of right now i am either thinking of redoing the whole fuel line, or just “fix” the (roughly about 4"- 6") gap that i created trying to cut corners. It is located on the rear side, (rust was/is the culprit) of a leak. I have the necessary tools to do either, just asking for advice and or pov.
Okay this second car is/was my daily. 2006 Volvo S60 Awd 2.5t. Problem: As i was doing a routine spark plug replacement, one decided to make me use more force than needing to and well “snap crackle pop” went the spark plug. The threads that came out with the spark plug were not morphed or “damaged”. The exact length is about half way. How many revolutions (my expert opinion about 8 to 10 before the spark plug would of came off naturally).
The snap spark plug is the first time that has happened to me but I am well verse in what i need to do, just want to see how i should go about it. Let me know what tricks and or tools that you used to solve your dilemma. Thanks in advance!
I live in wisconsin. The cars title was from Minnesota. I bought it in 2020. The rust is salvageable at least for the most part. But this car is just a “show” car.
The lines are the original steel ones that have a protective rubber wrap on it. Im working on it right now and just noticed that the line coming from the gas tank to where it rusted is just a tube and not copper or steel so even if i do fix it ill have to find that fuel tube leading to the steel fuel line. Or should i DIY it? Uploading: 17318744647002777451371584382920.jpg…
The spark plug didn’t break off in the head–it came apart inside the engine, and the rest of the spark plug fell down into the cylinder. At this point, your only option is to pull the head. Don’t even rotate the engine by hand to line up the timing marks, just pull the head first, remove the pieces of the spark plug, and take the head to a machine shop for reconditioning. Then, when reassembling the engine, line up the crankshaft timing marks before installing the head.
Is the spark plug hole empty, nothing in it, meaning nothing blocking you from sticking a blade of grass etc down in the hole and onto the top of the piston, or is the hole blocked by the remaining broken spark plug??
You didn’t post a picture of the head… EDIT, it didn’t load either
On the protective rubber, moisture can get in under the rubber and rust it out, unless you really like laying under the car repairing fuel lines more than once, replace it all and be done with it… I would be worried about the brake lines also…
