Hi, everyone. Thank you all in advance for your insight. I was able to use everyone’s post on another recent problem to decide to replace my other car. I have another case and I’m wondering if I can get some perspectives. My 1999 Nissan Maxima manual transmission is needing a new clutch. It will be about an $1800 job. It has 204,000 miles on it. Maintained regular oil changes, and tires only a couple month old. It has some scratches and scrapes (Typical for 27 year old car) but not major body damage. Generally it’s been pretty reliable, most of my mechanics tickets have been under $500, every couple years or so. I had last replaced the clutch 11 years/52,000 miles ago. It seemed like a shorter interval than normal to replace my clutch but generally speaking my mechanic said since I’m driving far below average yearly miles that it’s not surprising. I mostly only need a vehicle to get me to work which is in town and not highway driving. Only about 8 miles round trip. A couple other material facts, the car has a knock sensor that comes on from time to time but it has been coming on since 2019 and has not effected performance. I have heard some older Nissans have this issue and a few mechanics I’ve worked with have noted it but weren’t concerned it was a major issue for the car. Overall I like the stick shift as I feel they are a bit better mechanically and becoming a bit more rare. Anyway, where I am at in the process is my mechanic is going to look at it to see if there’s anything catastrophic to the vehicle that could shorten the life of the clutch and or the car itself to determine if there’s any other investment risks to the car. I also was informed by some internet research it may be in my best interest to repair the car either way since it wouldn’t be sellable without a clutch anyway. Would anybody like to give me perspective if It’s worth replacing and continued driving or try to find a newer used car? Thank you!
Assuming the rest of the car is in decent shape replace the clutch. Look for frame rust, if bad that can be a show stopper. Think about payments for a newer used car. If the yearly amount is more than $1,800 than you are ahead of the game by repalacing the clutch.
How much oil do you use?
I think it takes 5 qts.
Thank you for the insight, Steve CBT.
He is asking do you need to add oil between oil changes and if so how much.
Yep, sorry I wasn’t clear. The point of many of our comments is ‘what’s the condition of the other expensive car parts that could fail?’ The body (rust) and engine (wear) are the two biggest.
We had basically a pre purchase inspection done to our csr 8n a similar debate. Mechanics pulled a multiple page nspection from All data and checked everything. Paid for labor over the 45pt oil change inspection at the shop, being longtime customers.
Could need other things butprobably the same as sales tax as most new cars now. Buddy did a clutch,used engine with 1/3 the miles, and suspension work to a 230k mi Mazda3 for $2,500 planning to put another 100k on it. Might nit be for everyone but if you’re happy with the car you’d Pay just as much for a decent used car but you Know what’s been done.
26 yr old car.
How much oil do you use?
OP assumed query was oil capacity?
Oof.
Another one for have the overall vehicle checked out (sounds like you are) and then put a quality clutch kit with a new flywheel and rear main seal in it… Your premature clutch failure could be using low quality parts and or not machining/replacing the flywheel last time, or possible oil contamination…
Texases, sorry for my misunderstanding. The short answer is it doesn’t require any oil top up between intervals…I think. I have laid cardboard under the car and I do notice a a couple small drops every few weeks. However when I check the level it still seems to register between the L and H mark of the dipstick (so apparently normal?) That said it has been four months since my last change and I have only driven it about a thousand miles. I used to think that I could go the full mileage interval and not by time since last replacement but some people have convinced me its better to go by timing. Regardless I have never gone past the recommended mileage interval and always would change it yearly regardless, just as a safeguard. I’m open to constructive criticism to better management so if anyone has thoughts that’s great. I just only drive mostly in town about 2500-3000 miles a year. But as for the top up factor, I’ve never really had to do that since I’ve owned it. Let me know your thoughts. Thank you, Texases!
In that case, I’d definitely fix what you’ve got . . . complete clutch job using high-quality parts
Buying a new or new(er) car might not make sense, considering you don’t drive much, imo
Agreed, you appear to have a car in decent shape other than a wear item (the clutch). I’d replace th clutch as @db4690 and others have suggested.
Only a clutch, what did the Xterra need? Spark plug wires?
Hi Nevada_545. To be honest, I’m not really sure. I’m taking it you were a part of my similar inquiry a few days before this about whether to fix or replace the Xterra? That’s a great question and I ultimately took the advice of many people on the thread in regards to replacing it. I ended up buying a 2016 Toyota Highlander. Not sure your opinion on them but my mechanic seemed to think they were a fairly decent choice mechanically and that I wouldn’t regret it in the long term. With the Xterra, it had been the second time he was unable to come up with a diagnosis for the P0301. Also, shortly after seeing him for the second time it threw a P0300 code which as I’ve heard could be more concerning since it’s a completely random misfire. I apologize for not knowing a ton about cars but I am at least interested in learning and trying to make informed decisions. I watched a couple youtube videos, one with Scottie Kilmer who I believe is pretty well known. He was able to identify a vehicle having a similar issue as mine as engine compression. And my fear was if I drove it into the ground only to find out it was engine compression, I’d be out a car and have to buy quick, and hence more expensive. Interestingly though, the Xterra has tested fine for engine compression but the mechanic claimed it all depended on when they tested it when it was having that issue. Sorry if that was more long winded than necessary, I hope that gives greater context of the tale of two cars and why the Maxima may be a different outcome. At least, I’m hoping. LOL. For many of the great people on this forum finding a new car probably isn’t too emotionally draining. But for me it feels that way, lol. Thank you again for all the great questions and perspectives. I’d be interested in your opinion on whether it’s possible to sell the xterra. I’m guessing i’d just have to be honest and sell it for the price that it’s worth, which im not expecting a lot.
Yes he is well known and most of the real mechanics on this site say just ignore him .
P0300 is not truly a “random” misfire
Look at live data and freeze frame data and you’ll realize specific cylinder(s) are the issue
The advice seems to be inconsistent. Because of the low resale value of the Xterra, you should not perform the maintenance on the ignition system?
However, the Maxima (older) needs a clutch replacement, some people consider this to be a major repair.
I am not opposed to repairing the Maxima, I drive older vehicles myself.
However, be prepared to replace other parts that may be found in need of replacement during disassembly; clutch hydraulics, transmission and engine mounts, CV boots or axle assemblies.
Thank you db4690
Lol, thank you Volvo-V70