Good things for me to think about, Nevada_545. Thank you.
$1800 would be around 3 car payments or sometimes less. Even if you were paying cash for your next car, that is how I look at repair costs. So, the question is, do you think the Maxima would drive another 3 months w/o any major repairs if the clutch is done? It seems like the answer is yes.
Having said that, I recently used the same logic to repair the front suspension on our Hyundai Sonata with 195K miles. The control arms were shot but the car has a newer engine under the class action lawsuit. But as expected and also mentioned above by @Nevada_545 I ran into more issues and had to change the axles too. The car ended up staying on jack stands in my garage for 3 days for parts to arrive as local store $ was high. Two months ago I put in front brake calipers and hoses along with rotors/pads. Doing DIY helps keep the car on the raod but some things are difficult without a lift.
Good to know. I’ve heard the axles arent cheap and not too easy to replace. Also, do you happen to know if parts are difficult to find? I did talk to a guy who gave me a ballpark estimate for when mine need to be done, If I recall it was going to be around $1500. I’ve heard when a car gets aged to this place it’s common. He said you’ll notice when you turn it will get pretty annoying and bumpy. Your right about DIYing. I am jealous in lots of ways. As for the place in life I’m at right now I get paid double for overtime hours and for me doing what I know and paying for the things I don’t know has been a better setup. Thank you.
Axles are easy to replace while replacing a clutch; the axles need to be removed during the repair.
If your mechanic finds a torn CV boot or another problem with the axles/CV joints, the axles should be replaced during the clutch replacement. Replacement axle assemblies are available, a do-it-yourself mechanic can find them for less than $100 each. You mechanic might charge up to $300 each.
Worn CV joints will make a clicking noise while driving with the front wheels turned, it sounds like a roulette wheel, you won’t feel any bumps from the joints.
Good point, if the frame is solid, replacing the clutch makes sense. Rust is definitely the main thing to watch out for and comparing costs to a newer car is smart.
Did you hear the tragic news about Scotty?
He’s alive and well and still making YouTube videos!
Here in the North East the determining factor has almost always been rust. Anything mechanical can be fixed. But if there’s rust - it’s never-ending repair that could end up costing more than buying a new vehicle.
Repair, If that is all there is. Surprises could involve the need for flywheel resurfacing or leaky rear engine oil seal. Buying a used car could also buy some new problems if it doesn’t come with a good warranty.
Flywheel resurfacing is pretty much standard procedure for a complete clutch job, imo
I 100% agree, or replacement of the flywheel…
Also standard is the rear main seal (1 piece anyway) is normally replaced also, I always added it to the estimate, if not needed it just saves the customer money… Basically advise the customer to anything that could be replaced with the back of the engine right there…
Some clutch manufacturers won’t warranty their parts unless the flywheel is resurfaced and you need to provide a receipt to prove it.