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1997 Kia Sephia 1.8l rs P0335 code

So I put a new motor in this car that had about 43,000 miles on it along with a new 13,000 mile transmission. After all was said and done I started it it and got the P0335 code. I replaced the sensor because the cable on the old was eaten thru pretty bad. Still I’m getting the code. I’m not sure we’re to go from here. I need it to pass emissions so I can get tabs. My last resort was to spend another 150$ so I can get an emissions waver. But I know that the problem will not be fixed if I go down that road. I need to know what I can do to figure out what’s going on with this. It fires up just fine it hesitates on the execration, I just bought a new battery and had the starter checked. Please if someone has any advise that would be so great I just need this car street leagal so we can have two vehicles again. It’s strictly for commuting to work. Thanks.

“hesitates on the execration”… Happens sometimes…Try Prune juice or getting more fiber in your diet…these things can happen in life. More fiber, more fluids and your “execration” will be fine…Uh…wait a minute what am I talking about again?

HA…Sorry…I had to…P0335 is a crankshaft code…this is or can be important because the ECM uses this info for running the engine ignition system…and you are probably having an engine miss as a result. You need to first check the mechanical timing on this engine…and I am wondering what codes you had Before this “New to You” engine… Im talking about the t-belt and the timing it provides…it needs to be spot on…not off one tooth or suspect of belt stretch.

I would start by cleaning off that crank sensor…and or testing it/replacing it. I would also check the mechanical timing of the engine…Put the engine at TDC and line up all the marks…be sure the crank and cam marks are alligned…if they arent you will see these types of codes.

You can also glean some advice from this link.


So I did just replace the sensor because the wire was a little chewed up. I was also told by a friend to check the grounds and make sure there’s a good clean connection. So your saying I should pull the valve cover off and check to make sure I’m all lined up? The motor was from Japan and I did by a new belt for the old 183k motor that I put on the new one when I got it, so maybe it could be not all the way lined up. if I remember this dohc motor has four points that need to lineup to be correct. Is there anything else to check in the meantime? And do you know if there is a way to get a free chitons or manual of some sort so I can have a diagram to work with? I had a website that I used but it’s no longer available. I don’t want to buy one if I can get the info for free. Thanks for your help with this.


The Kia technical information website is still available . . . but it’s no longer free

so I guess i might need to invest in a book then

Does doing the timing require pulling the engine? I replaced the timing belt when I swapped the motor so I’m not sure if I can do it that way or not. Because I just pulled the motor to put in a new transmission.

Or you could pay the roughly $20 for 2-3 days access and get the information you need

IMO Chilton and Haynes manuals are equal . . . AFAIK, they’re actually both owned by the same publisher

I’ll check my local library because if I remember correctly they offer some kind of printable manuals that you can get at the cost of 10cents per sheet.

I used to have one of the same Kia and I believe the engine and the transmission are a Mazda product. Mine was a manual. I am not sure if this info will help you but at least could try and see if you can get any info from Mazda sites too.

NOOOO…you can check your mechanical timing and change the belt with the engine in the car…welcome to the spaces I work in daily :wink:

No need to pull engine…though it crosses your mind sometimes…it is not needed. Yes I would at the very least check my mechanical timing…you should not need to pull the valve cover either. It would take about 30 min to do this procedure to check…prob less.

See if someone posted the procedure on U 2oob…you might get lucky


My cams are under the passenger side of the valve cover, so it looks like I will need to remove the cover to see that the marks line up with the back plate. I can take a picture if needed. I was watching a helpful video on YouTube for replacing the timing belt and upon looking down on the passenger side of the engine I noticed that the crankshaft sensor magnet is no even parallel with the crank. If you need a picture for that to I can get it. If that’s not parallel can that cause the code? Because I thought there is something in the crankshaft pulley that reacts to the magnet as it spins. I may not be explaining this right, but can someone shed some light on this that would be great. Thanks

If any one could give some advise on this that would be great. I will need to remove the cover to get to the cams. And the crankshaft sensor is not lined up with the crankshaft pulley. Will this pose a problem?

You may need to rotate the engine another 180 degrees… Your TDC mark on the main pulley will line up 2 times within 360 degrees of rotation…one time you will be 180…the next time round you will be at Proper TDC on the number 1 pistion.

TDC refers to Top Dead Center on the number 1 piston only…all cylinders and pistons have a TDC…but the only one to concern yourself with is the number 1

Now if you line up that mark once and the cams dont seem right or near their mark…go round 180 and check again…if nothing lines up proper within 2 tries…we have a problem

Oops…180? Its another 360 on the crank…since the cams spin at half the time of the crank…yes its 360 Sorry…been a long day today… Just watch your marks as they come to line up. If its not lined up at TDC…go round again. You can also remove the plug in the number one cyl and use a piece of plastic hose or carefully use a long screwdriver to feel where the piston is in the cyl. I have a tool that whistles at me when i am coming up on TDC on the number one…looks like a spark plug…but its a whistle…and when thats not around I use the hose from a compression tester with the schrader valve removed in the end…same thing…it blows air at me when the number 1 is on the way up…on the compression stroke…MUST be on the compression stroke for the line up to mean anything.


Thanks for the help with this, I really appreciate it. I haven’t had the time to do it yet but I will this weekend for sure. I need two vehicles again. One other thing, I decided to check the plug itself with a voltage meter and multimeter. I’m getting a funny reading, so I have the voltage meter hooked up to the positive battery and I have the camshaft position sensor unplugged. Now when I touch two of the three prongs in the plug the voltage meter lights up. I assume this is bad, and could potentially be my problem? As far as I know only one of the three should light for the ground not two. What does this mean? if pictures are needed or I can post video on my You tube channel.