So it was cranking, but not fast enough cranking rpm to start the engine? I guess on larger engines that would be more likely than something like my Corolla 1.6 L engine. If the Corolla starter motor wasn’t cranking fast enough to start the engine, it would be cranking very, very, slow, and that would be easily noticed. Another part of the confusion here, it started with starter spray. I guess a slow crank can be overcome with a richer mixture maybe.
Yes i was pretty surprised. The cranking sounded exactly the same as it always does when starting my van. Absolutely no noticeable difrerence. I want to trace those wires and see where they go because it wasnt a large starter cable it was just maybe 3 10g wires. I think it was preventing a signal from being sent but not stopping the starter from cranking. But i could be wrong.
The small wire that connects to the starter is usually for powering the starter solenoid. That’s what gets powered by turning the key to “start”. Then the starter solenoid actuates, and that action is what a provides an electrical path to power-up the starter motor itself. The solenoid is also what pushes the starter gear out toward the flywheel teeth, at least on some designs like my Corolla.
You say you didn’t notice any difference in the robustness of the sound of the rrr rrrr from the starter motor when it does start vs when it doesn’t? hmm… that seems suspicious. I’m guessing you have more than one problem you’re dealing with. Suggest to ask shop to check for any problems in the ignition system and to measure the cylinder compression levels.
I had a weird symptom on my V8 truck awhile ago. Cranked ok, wouldn’t start. Fuel ok. Spark ok, clearly visible, but slightly redder rather than the normal whitish-blue. Turned out the reason it wouldn’t start up was a weak spark, caused by some slight & invisible oxidation on the surfaces of the ignition points.
Thats an interesting issue definitely not something i wouldve thought of. And you were totally right about my van having multiple issues because im once again broken down on the side of the road after it running for 4 days. I definitely think it could be a bad fuel pump or pressure regulator. I just have to do more in depth testing to find out what. Also very not excited about replacing either of those parts because it would entail either pulling my intake manifold or dropping my fuel tank and i have to find a place where i can do that. Man this issue is kinda killing me right now. So crazy that tightening that connection got it to start up and literally run for 4 days but it seems to have been a false correlation. I think it was only the source of my no crank issue.
Hello everyone not sure if anyone is still reading this thread, im so grateful for the input and advice ive gotten so far. I replaced my fuel filter and my van has been starting up great. I checked my fuel pressure and its at 62 psi when cranking then drops to around 55 when idling and back up to around 60 when i hit the throttle. I finally drove it around to do errands today and it started up great after each stop but when i was driving home it stalled out at a stop sign. I managed to pull over, put it in park, and it started right back up immediately and i went to park it somewhere safe. Does anyone have ideas of other things to check for this extremely intermittent stalling issue? It has only happened to me maybe 3 times in the last 2 weeks and always when stopping. Im scared of it becoming more serious or leading to another no start and obviously scared to take it on the freeway.
Bad idle air control valve can cause an engine to stall when when releasing the gas pedal is one.
Tester
Thank you!! I’ll try to check that out on my vehicle. Its kind of strange how the low fuel pressure issue/ crank no start appeared at the same time as the stalling. So im wondering if there truly is no connection or im maye missing something in my fuel supply system.
I still think it’s your fuel pump. The fact that it fired with spraying ether into the intake basically confirmed that. The loose connection at the starter was a red herring .
Yeah you could definitely be right. This morning it started a few times but now im back at crank no start. I guess my fuel pump is probqbly going out but has just been working intermittently.
Still a little concerned that it could be the fuel pressure regulator instead though. I really need to do more in depth testing.
Also wanted to note that this morning using the starter fluid did not work as well. The first time it was sprayed it barely worked and the secone time it wouldnt start at all. Usually the started fluid gets it to start right away, although it sounds terrible and stops when the spray is stopped.
Interesting
But very strange 
Yeah. Im planning on dropping my fuel tank asap and checking out the condition of my pump. It seems worth it at this point. But i also want to check my pressure regulator with the fuel pressure gage on last time. I can always hear my fuel pump priming but i guess since the poppet valves on my injectors are so sensitive to low fuel pressure even if my pump is underperforming slightly it could cause a no start issue.
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So ill be taking out my old fuel pump tomorrow to check it out. Im planning on probably replacing it regardless but i was wondering if anyone has any advice on how i can examine it to see if it might be the source of my problem. I was planning on just checking all the electrical connections and looking at the condition of the sock.
There’s nothing you can look at to see if it’s bad. Fuel pumps are tested on the car by measuring fuel pressure and fuel volume.
Or, if the engine doesn’t start, bang on the gas tank with a rubber mallet to see if it then starts.
Tester
At that point youve already done all the labor, just change it.
Just a thought… have you change the fuel pump relay. it could be working intermittently.
Suggest OP use the forum search feature, see what other’s have posted about problems w/ this engine. I seem to recall quite a few problems about fuel injector spider assemblies in posts from a few years ago. I think it would be wise to get an independent shop measurement of the fuel pressure before considering to remove or replace the fuel pump. The problem with replacing parts just to see what happens, you could be replacing a good oem-quality part with a out-of-the-box aftermarket faulty part.
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