1996 Integra - driver side squeal, broken wheel stud, suspension

Maintenance/Repairs
,
1

First - Been doing plenty of research and search.

1996 4 door auto “Dad” version Teg. 154k miles. Sat for over a year. I
rebuilt the ignition / dizzy with some civic yard bits, got it out of my
buddies garage, and am trying to get in action. It sat for 1yr plus

so - Suspension wise, no play anywhere. Pass. side has bad boots on the
rack & CV… Cleaned, greased, zip tied for now. Driver side - the
UCA bushings are not even in existence as far as I can tell. Occasional
clunk when driving - however, the bolts are starting to wear/bang
dents/holes in the sides of the… well where they are -
new UCA is in stock @ the “crib, dawg”

There’s lots of fiddly details I’ll leave out for now.

QUESTION:

Driver side has a horrible high pitched sounds like the dust shield hitting the rotor sound when moving.

Yesterday - pulled off the hubcap. One lug nut was cross-threaded and
showed 3/4" of unthreaded bolt an of course snapped the stud when trying
to remove.

This car has 4 studs. The opposite nut was finger loose

The other 2 were normal tight.

Tore it down to the hub. I can’t see a way to get the wheel stud out without pulling the hub or grinding the spindle a LOT.

Cleaned up the brakes, sand paper, etc etc etc. Put it back with 3 lug
nuts, just to drive it around to the front of my place from the alley [I live in a decent sized city] - and I found & cleaned massive rust
chunks stuck by the rotor, checked the dust shield etc etc etc.

Still have a mad loud high pitched metal rubbing metal sound when I
drive over 1mph - driver side for sure. I can’t see or tell WTF could
be a rotational squeal… unless it’s a durn whell bearing - but I’ve
NEVER heard one go out and make the exact "dust shield on the rotor"
sound.

So - what to check? New to 'Teg - not to Honda… But this lil bastard
needs the hub pulled for a wheel stud - unless someone can point me in
the 100% direction for grinder clearance, I can’t see a way to pull the
old & fit the new stud without a hub pull…

Thank you everyone for your help. First Teg, wanna get 'er ripping!

-Marky

2

did you check the pad thickness while you were in there? Could be a wear tab.

3

Grind a little bit of the stud head so you can have a better angle to insert it.I usually grind 1/2 of the stud head. Does the noise stops when you press on the brakes?Does the wheel feel hot after a short drive? I was thinking of a seized caliper.

4

yes the wheel gets hot after a short drive. on this particular car there is
no kind of grinding half the stud head off. if I ground a 3/8 inch deep
channel in the hub and then ground off half of the stud and then used a
Dremel on the broken stud I could probably change it out that way but
otherwise no doing.

one thing I think I forgot to mention and some more details. hitting the
brakes makes zero change also I’ve pulled both sides of the brakes all the
way down to pulling the rotors off sanding down a little bit of rust the
pads are all good almost brand new greased everything that needed grease to
put the brakes all back together. still got the same noise and I swear it
sounds like a heat shield hitting the brakes but it’s not. I guess there’s
a tiny tiny possibility that the broken stud backed out a little bit and is
rubbing the Hub but I didn’t see a bright shiny Channel anywhere so I kind
of doubt that. also I think I think mind you when I make a sharp left turn
like 90 degrees at slow speed the squeal from the driver side goes away. I
thought the squeal came from the passenger side but it just turns out it’s
because my driver side window doesn’t open and my passenger side does.
after driving an opening the drivers side door it’s pretty obvious the
squeal is coming from the drivers side. which is were I have the busted bushings on the UCA.

Bear in mind - no play in the wheel…

I’m a bit baffled.

And if anyone has experience in a 1996 Integra, 4 bolt wheels, without pulling the hub - is there ANY way to do it without grinding down the spindle a fair ammount, or puling the hub?
The way I see it, there isn’t even a decent place to rotate the busted stud to, where I can grind a reasonablly shallow groove for stud R&R…

Calipers COULD be junk - but the pads are pretty new looking, rotors… minor glazing in radial spots. I could pull the calipers and move the piston around a bit with a punch though the brake line hole and see if they aren’t hardly moving I guess. Or jack er up and run in gear with both sides torn down to the hub. But dang that’s a pain. I think they are fine.
Maybe today I’ll use a 1x3" in the caliper, with it removed from the wheel and hooked up - and a friend, and see how they work, or don’t…

I have literally never heard this sound when it WASN’T brakes or dust shield or something rubbing

-Mark

5

I should mention [& re-mention]

no change when braking, at all.

Seems to quiet a bit on a slow 90 degree left turn

Drivers side is where the loud af noise is from

get a tiny bit of noise from the rear brakes when reversing really slow

I’m really stuck here!

-MM

6

This might help! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdZGl-iU-ms Like Eric stated in his video, make sure the dust shield is not bent out of shape and causing the noise.

7

Good for you keeping that “Dad’s Integra” going! Had the pleasure of having a 2-door “wife’s” Integra of that generation. No car I ever had felt more refined for its period that that Integra. Ours was a mid-trim. The top-trim GS-R and rare Type R Integras are now sought after and many enthusiasts love them. Good luck. I vote with the frozen caliper issue crowd. Little known factoid - Acura USA doesn’t have a single model for sale today that sells at the rate the1989 Integra did.

8

I don’t know when the pads were last changed but they’re evenly worn both
sides of the car and both sides of the pads. there’s a little bit of
glazing on the rotors both sides but not much. I didn’t change the pants so
I didn’t have to compress the calipers but the pads are probably at 89%
anyways so the calipers are almost fully retracted I guess I could get a 1
by 2 stick it in there and hit the brakes and see what happens but I kind
of doubt it’s a caliper anyways I guess it’s an easy check

9

also I should probably note that the sound is present whether the brakes
are applied or not and it does not change one iota depending on breaking no
breaking brake Force Etc pardon the misspellings I’m dictating into the
phone

10

Is it possible to post a sound clip? This is what the seized caliper(driver side) sounded like on my car.

11

I don’t have a sound clip but it is very similar to that except for louder and worse. When I think about it the only rotating assemblies that show any wear consistant with a constant sound - the glazing on the rotor. Had semi matching glazing on the pads - sanded that off. Brake action is fine, pad wear is fine - but they could be just seized enough to drag a bit.

12

Exactly! I caught mine just in time before it got worst. The rubber boot around the caliper piston had a little tear in it,just enough to let water in and corrode the internal part of the piston.I bought a reman caliper(without the pads mounting bracket) for $40 and installed it myself. Took me 10 minutes including bleeding the brake line.

13

I got the new stud by carving a littlee Groove in the hub and a bit off the
stud. Looks like my rear brakes are really making the gnarly noise
hopefully some new pads some hard breaking some sandpaper and a new upper
control arm on the driver side will help me in business

1 Like
14

Is it a super-difficult job to remove the hub on your Integra? It seems like you have to remove the caliper and rotor anyway to renew the brakes, and once the caliper & rotor are off maybe it is easier overall to just pull the hub and replace the affected studs on the work bench, no need to compromise the hub or the replacement studs.

Remember that the hub and studs are part of the wheel’s rotating ass’y, and any effect on the weight balance on those parts may cause a vibration.

15

just a heads up I’ve got everything sorted. ended up grinding a slot in the
spindle edge and a flat on the stud head. vibrations smibration - if & when
I have a problem with it, or need a wheel bearing, I’ll do it “right” -
this is a major budget car right now…

squeal - broken abs sensor hitting the back of a rear hub. a prybar fixed
it for now (no impact screedriver to get the rotor screws off)
Both rear calipers are bad off - the pads / brakes weren’t even doing any
braking.

Got one side loose & retracted. Other side… Need a caliper…

Tomorrow - PS pressure line, and I’ll pretty much be rockin. Gonna try for
a 'yard caliper before I get a new one - car stops WAY better than my
datsun as is, and I’ve never had abs in my life, so that sensor can wait
too!

-Mark

16

Good for you. Best of luck, and Keep on truckin’ :wink:

17

just finished a pressure hose replacement with hopefully all the parts some
zip ties some cut in half rubber bushings that fit inside some of the clamp
thingies brackets whatever you want to call them. I’ve got seven hundred
into a $400 car and I think I’m good to go an extra beater or at least
another 50 60 thousand miles. one of these days I’ll grab a rear caliper
passenger side no wait driver side but it breaks like I said better than
any of my other vehicle so guess what not going to worry about it love the
fact that I can get a so-called hot inspection