First - Been doing plenty of research and search.
1996 4 door auto “Dad” version Teg. 154k miles. Sat for over a year. I
rebuilt the ignition / dizzy with some civic yard bits, got it out of my
buddies garage, and am trying to get in action. It sat for 1yr plus
so - Suspension wise, no play anywhere. Pass. side has bad boots on the
rack & CV… Cleaned, greased, zip tied for now. Driver side - the
UCA bushings are not even in existence as far as I can tell. Occasional
clunk when driving - however, the bolts are starting to wear/bang
dents/holes in the sides of the… well where they are -
new UCA is in stock @ the “crib, dawg”
There’s lots of fiddly details I’ll leave out for now.
Driver side has a horrible high pitched sounds like the dust shield hitting the rotor sound when moving.
Yesterday - pulled off the hubcap. One lug nut was cross-threaded and
showed 3/4" of unthreaded bolt an of course snapped the stud when trying
This car has 4 studs. The opposite nut was finger loose
The other 2 were normal tight.
Tore it down to the hub. I can’t see a way to get the wheel stud out without pulling the hub or grinding the spindle a LOT.
Cleaned up the brakes, sand paper, etc etc etc. Put it back with 3 lug
nuts, just to drive it around to the front of my place from the alley [I live in a decent sized city] - and I found & cleaned massive rust
chunks stuck by the rotor, checked the dust shield etc etc etc.
Still have a mad loud high pitched metal rubbing metal sound when I
drive over 1mph - driver side for sure. I can’t see or tell WTF could
be a rotational squeal… unless it’s a durn whell bearing - but I’ve
NEVER heard one go out and make the exact "dust shield on the rotor"
So - what to check? New to 'Teg - not to Honda… But this lil bastard
needs the hub pulled for a wheel stud - unless someone can point me in
the 100% direction for grinder clearance, I can’t see a way to pull the
old & fit the new stud without a hub pull…
Thank you everyone for your help. First Teg, wanna get 'er ripping!