My “check engine light” is on, a mechanic said it has to do with the transmission, the engine sometimes runs very “smooth” and sometimes it accelerates very bad, just recently I replaced the idle control valve sensor, for two weeks it run perfect, than started doing what I described above; should I replaced the idle valve sensor again? Txs
No, you should find out what codes the engine computer has stored and post them here. They should be in the form P1234. You can get them read at most auto parts stores for free. Have them read and post back and we’ll try and help.
there’s one thing though, with computers being installed in cars, I was told to clear the computer before doing any schematic reads with a code reader, cause it will still have on there the old codes from before and not any new ones. before doing the read to clear a computer, disconnect the battery or remove the fuse to the starter for a few minutes, then re-connect battery or re-insert the fuse. then take it to the autoparts store for a “fresh read”…
After a year, I don’t think the original poster learned anything from your comment.
And I disagree with the last portion of your statement. The new codes will be there along with any old ones that are still being set.
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well, a mechanic told me this (although it was a few years ago) so if anything, take it to your mechanic and have them run a code tester on it… it’ll probably say the same or something different… I don’t really rely on the testing equipment at the autoparts store cause a lot of the times, some of the employees don’t know what the codes mean… good luck.
They don’t need to know what the codes mean. You need the actual codes, then do your own research.
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and sometimes it does help to know what those codes mean. that way one has a understanding of what they are… have a nice day…
what mustangman is saying, is that with the actual codes, you can look for yourself and find what the codes represent. Not relying on the employee of an chain autoparts store to “help” you figure out what is wrong with your car. Those folks are nice, and can be helpful for what they do- but they are not mechanics.
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I used to work at AutoZone. We would give the customer a printout of the codes, their basic meanings, and suggested parts to replace. That is not a substitute for in-depth knowledge of other potential solutions, which doing your own research would reveal. Most of my coworkers didn’t have a clue beyond what was on the printout, which is fine since we were NOT considered to be a repair facility.
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apparently that is not happening anymore since they put a troubleshooting section on their webpage. only one person knew what the codes were and how to read them since the new hires didn’t have a clue about how to get them much less know what they meant… I am not totally helpless when it comes to repairs, it’s only the electrical system that I don’t really mess with unless it’s to change out fuses or replace a cruise control on the steering column…
I don’t think people are getting through.
The code reader at the auto parts store will return the same code as at the mechanic’s. If the mechanic gets a P1234, and then you take it to the parts store, they will see a P1234 as well.
We are saying not to rely on the part’s store’s interpretation of what those codes mean. But it’s fine to get the actual code from them.
Kind of like a law book in a law firm is going to say the same thing as the same law book in a book store, but you should not ask the book store clerk how to beat your murder rap.
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