You don’t need to exchange emails . all of your posts are seen by everyone . So you do not need to reply to each one . Just post and maybe someone who has not posted might see you question and have a thought.
You can click on a screen name and send a private message to them but that might eliminate some help.
Thx greendragOn,
1st, how do I get a “code name” on this medium? I was told by a member that I shouldn’t use my e-mail. Yet, the CarTalk instruction says to use “reply” to have conversation. So I did.
Next, I’m not sure what you’re saying about OBD2 reader. This car is OBD1. In 1996 all cars went to OBD2. I understand that there’s an adapter in most OBD2 kits where you can then connect to OB1. Is that what you mean? And if so, is an OBD2 code reader better than an OBD1 reader? How can that work? (the adapter). OBD1 flashes numbers on the instrument cluster (as you know). The OBD2 has the PXXX readings, etc. How can OBD2 be compatible with OBD1?
Further, I took the car to Toyota dealership and waited 5 1/2 hours for a “diagnosis.” Surely, they plugged it into there top-notch Toyota scanner. After that long wait they came out and said, “We don’t know what it is.” That leads me to believe it IS the ECM. I don’t know. I can hardly believe it’s the ECM. The thing has never been out of the car, as far as I can tell. I bought in 2006. Further, I read that the ECM on these cars rarely goes bad.
What say ye, sir?
Hi George San Jose,
I was thinking the same thing, maybe EGR or Oxy sensors (fore or aft). Of course, as you know, I could swap all the parts out and have a “new car.” But that’s what a diagnosis is for, yes? I have the original, official '95 Corolla Manual (4" thick). The OBD1 system will give you a code, then the manual gives you 4 or 5 possible causes to check for each code (4-2, 5-1, 6-1 and etc.)
I suppose it could be a vacuum leak. I don’t have the equipment to check that, at this point.
I already checked for clogged Converter (Catalytic). I removed the exhaust pipe from manifold. No change.
I did the “shound check” on the injectors to hear them “clicking.” Maybe that’s not an absolute test. It may not indicate clogged or sticking injectors.
I don’t know how I can get “too lean or too rich” codes. I think that may be an OBD2 capability, but I think not an OBD1 function.
Finally, fuel pressure check needs special tool since there are no nipples. One must disconnect the line at the fuel inj. rail and tap in with a special fitting tool. I’m trying to get this done on a very austere budget for myself.
Thx,
George
Wow. I never considered that. But I left the back seat out just so I could reaccess. I’d need a new connector to the fuel pump, eh?
Thx,
George
So, how do I “post” openly, to all? I don’t see a post button, or a send button.
You just did . Or the simple thing to do is just log on to the site with your screen name .
Thx, its me,
I had the timing changed about a 1 1/2 years ago. I brought it back to the guy a few months ago (he worked for a Toyota dealer and his “first car” was the '95 Corollo. He listened to the engine and juiced the throttle body butterfly (to listen). He said it’s not the timing belt.
2nd, sir, I don’t have a timing light. But the timing is set by the computer (ECM). There is no adjustment there at the dist. So, is it possible that that ign. timing could still be off? Of course, I could, myself, check the timing belt postion, but I’ve been avoiding doing that (if I don’t have to). You know, on these compact cars and engine compartment you have to take a bunch of stuff off to check the timing belt . . timing. And I do all that on the ground, no lift.
Geo
Oh, I did? I just used the “reply” button which I assumed gave my e-mail address since someone on this site cautioned me about that. In other words, you don’t see my e-mail address on your end? (that would be a relief). I don’t really know what others can do bad to you with their knowledge of e-mail address. I just don’t click on any links if I don’t know them. Yes?
Thx, Volvo
Geo
That is what you have been doing this whole time. The description of your issues really indicates a jumped timing belt.
The 95 Corolla had either a 4A-FE 1.6L engine in the base models or a 7A-FE 1.8L engine. Both use a timing belt instead of a timing chain and the OEM belt service was every 4 years or 60k miles. Most people think that timing belts fail by breaking, but they can also fail by loosing teeth and that can lead to an occasional jumping of cam timing.
Here is a video on checking the cam timing.
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This is not true; the ECM can’t control the timing in this car. The timing is adjusted by loosening the two 12 mm bolts holding the distributor to the head and rotating the assembly CW or CCW depending on whether it needs to be advanced or retarded. You do need a timing light to verify it’s correct. (10 deg BTDC)
I agree that it sounds like the timing belt skipped or else the timing is way off. But you said it happened suddenly which would more likely be the belt.
Dear sestivers,
Sorry, but you are mistaken. The timing is controlled by the ECM. The distributor (which I change a year ago) has one bold fastening it and the hole for the bolt is round, not slotted. There is NO adjustment. The timing is set, mechanically, but controlled by the ECM. But thx for your input and for trying.
FYI, this model year was “in transition.” That is, soon to go to OBD2. There are Japanese models and models made in Canada.
Geo
But if the timing belt has jumped 1 tooth, the cam and/or distributor timing is now off.
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Now I’m getting somewhere. Yes, I know about timing belt jumping a tooth, maybe. I just had it changed 1 1/2 years ago. I brought it back to the mech. His first car was a '95 Corolla at a dealership. He listened to it and said, “It’s not the t-belt jumping.” I knew thata. I believe it’s one of the inputs to ECM. I did t/s many of them by hand (according to official shop manual). But I have not, by hand, t/s’d some of the inputs, like ox sensors or EGR. I’m just getting tired. But I don’t have the zulas to just replace part after part.
Ideas?
All I’m left with is a compression test as suggested by @Mustangman
or get a vacuum gauge and test.
https://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html
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You’ve been given several ideas, and you’ve shot them all down, saying that you THINK those are ok, but you don’t actually know at the moment. Each of the tests that have been suggested are valid and can help direct you on which move to make next.
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I hate to say this . . .
You’re wrong
I had a 1995 Corolla with the 7A-FE for many years, and it did NOT have a slotted distributor
But you did need to verify timing with the light . . . after replacing the timing belt
If it was out of spec . . . you messed up doing the timing belt job
But I’ll give you partial credit, because I’m sometimes a nice guy
I believe some earlier Toyotas with that same engine DID have slotted distributor mounting holes. I mention this because my brother used to own a 1994 Celica with a 7A-FE engine, and I believe it did have slotted holes. But it’s been several years . . .
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So, db4690, even though the t-belt was changed 1 1/2 years ago, I should still check the ignition timing with a light. That would save time over removing all the covers and belts to check the cam and belt postions. Thx. I’ll try it. First I have to borrow a timing light.
I am really against text speak shorthand . Not every one is fluent in it . Thanks to Mr. Google apparently t/s means (trouble shoot ) . I wonder just how many besides me have no idea what that meant .
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That pretty much confirms it isn’t the cat.
Some relatively inexpensive diy’er ideas. Use a can of starter spray and spray it here and there around the engine as it idles If the rpm increases when you spray in a certain spot, voila, you’ve found a vacuum leak. Starter spray is highly flammable, so use caution, proper personal protection, outdoors, have a fire extinguisher on hand, etc. Replace the pcv valve. Buy/borrow a handheld vacuum tool (e.g. Mityvac, around $35) and check all the vacuum controlled devices, especially the brake booster, confirm they hold vacuum.
Worth doing, but doesn’t test for clogged injectors. Try running a can or two of injector cleaner into the gas tank. I used one called Clean Power; folks here often recommend Techron.
My Corolla is older than yours, but uses the same 4AFE engine yours probably has, and is OBD 1. It supports both rich and lean diagnostic codes. Do you know how to check for stored codes?
I’ve never had to do that myself. Not on the Corolla anyway, I did it several times on my prior VW Rabbit. On my Corolla I’d remove the cold start injector and plug the pressure tester into that port. But if you aren’t tooled up best path is to have this test done at a shop. Anything to do w/the fuel system is best done at a shop for a novice diy’er. One thing you could do however is remove the vacuum hose that connects to the fuel pressure regulator. Engine off. There should be absolutely no fuel inside that hose. If there is the fuel pressure regulator is faulty and must be replaced.
On my 4AFE engine there’s two baseline settings that are critical. First, the warm idle rpm must be spot on. On mine there’s a bleed screw adjustment on the throttle body. Second, the warm idle ignition timing must be spot on. Set that by using a timing light as you slightly twist the distributor. The ECM adjusts the timing for engine rpm and engine load, but it assumes the warm idle timing has been properly manually set. Whether those two parameters need to be manually set on your engine, don’t know. The tune-up spec’s changed most every model year.
Common sense says to replace the engine air filter, spark plugs, distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires, check the valve clearances, and check for diagnostic codes stored in the ECM memory first. I’d also confirm the valve timing. On mine that’s pretty simple to do, just have to remove the upper timing belt cover. Your shop manual will explain how to do it.
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I have that 1994 Celica with the 7AFE and have made a bad assumption that the 1995 Corolla with 7AFE would be the same. I apologize for causing confusion.
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