I have a 1972 ford 250 with a 360 engine. I bought the truck new. The carburetor is in need of either rebuild or replace. When I go on line looking for carburetors it’s overwhelming as their are myriads of replacements from $75.00 to $400.00, the same for rebuilt. Can anyone provide some insights from experience with any of the companies providing replacements or rebuilding? Thanx
What exactly are your symptoms? Needles and seats, new diaphram, choke pulloff,gaskets and a good cleaning is all I have ever had to do.
The 72 E250 didn’t come with the 360 engine.
Second generation
1972–1974 Ford Club Wagon
Overview
Production 1968–1974
Body and chassis
Body style 3-door van
Layout FR layout
Powertrain
Engine 240 cu in (3.9 L) I6
300 cu in (4.9 L) I6
302 cu in (5.0) Windsor V8
Transmission 3-Speed Manual
3-speed Cruise-O-Matic automatic
Dimensions
Wheelbase SWB: 105.5 in (2,679.7 mm)
LWB: 123.5 in (3,136.9 mm)
Tester
What size carburetor? 2 barrel? 4 barrel?
If it is a 4 barrel, I’d suggest an Edelbrock replacement sized 500 CFM. It is compatible with modern ethanol laced gasoline. Your original carb will not like modern gas and will need regular rebuilds.
My 71 ford pickup had no problem with ethanol gas when I traded it in 92 I believe. Rust killed it.
F 250 (typo)
It’s the original motorcraft two barrel.
27 years ago… Ethanol wasn’t in gas in any quantity until after 1992
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Rockauto has carbs for a decent price.
Tester
If you are in the San Jose area maybe george could rebuild it for you if you don’t mind not having the van for awhile as he is on record for taking the longest time to rebuild a carb.
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This discussion has your name all over it, as your Ford truck is the same vintage
Maybe you can tell op the name of a shop or an outfit that will rebuild the carburetor, even if he has to ship it in the mail
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I rebuild my own carbs, but I get my parts from this company https://www.carburetorfactory.com/
They also provide rebuild service, and based on the quality of their parts and service, I wouldn’t hesitate to have them do a rebuild for me. Be sure and ask them to use ethanol resistant parts.
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Thanx all, exactly the kind of feedback information I was hoping for.
I rebuilt my autolite 2100 2b carb for my 302 ford truck a while ago. Purchase the rebuild kit and a can of carb soaking fluid is my suggestion. This process takes some time, don’t try this for the first time by yourself if you must drive the van in the next few days. Actually I was granted the “taking the longest time to rebuild a carb” prize by a poster on this very forum … lol … seriously.
A few tips
- take a look at a few of the utube vdos on rebuilding your carb, there’s one where they do the job on top of a 5 gallon bucket in a gravel parking lot, it’s pretty good. take-away-line: “it’s a ford, it can’t be that difficult!”
- take a look at the google pdf search results on the rebuild datasheets. some are more clear than others. the instructions cover many different applications for the same carb family, so there’s some sorting to do to figure out which instructions and specifications apply to your own carb.
- look at the emissions label on your engine. It will provide some of the carb’s choke settings.
- while I’ve been able to get the job done prior just using a spray can, soaking the carb parts in carb cleaner was necessary this last time
- be sure to blow all the passages out with compressed air after the soak
- install four bolts and nuts into the four holes at the base. These “legs” allows you to place the carb on your work table in a steady position.
- when you are done fill the carb bowl and make sure there’s no leaks dripping out the power valve or elsewhere before re-installing.
Bottom line: before rebuild, engine would barely run
after rebuild, vroom! … runs like new.
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The Ford 2bbl was the simplest and most trouble free carburetor that I ever dealt with. Simpler than any 1bbl of any brand except Marvel Schlebler.
If you’re going to rebuild it yourself, Read all the instructions before disassembling the carb.
Some require that you take measurements while taking it apart, so you know the measurements to re assemble it properly.
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I’m sorta sure that if the accelerator pump rod is replaced in the original hole on the lever and float is level when with both idle jets set 1-1/4 turns out everything will turn out OK. I learned to set the floats on Ford 2bbls with the engine running and the top off the carburetor. The same can be done with Q-Jets but the float pin must be held down on those while the Ford floats are held down with a clip.
Thanx Rod, I think I’ll do it myself, it seems to be a pretty straight forward project on one of the simpler carbs.
Carb rebuilds arent that difficult when using the proper kit to do so. If you decide to go that route I applaud your efforts…you may learn a thing or two. Take photos before and while you disassemble it…cant tell you how many times that has saved my A#$ on unfamiliar carbs.
The rebuild kits are usually quite comprehensive in their scope and that is a good thing… The ONLY thing not covered and which is very important…and what you need to look out for is the rod that actuates the butterfly’s in the base plate of the carb… This brass rod goes straight thru to the other side of the base plate… Over time and use…this rod “Hogs Out” the bore hole that it must run through. If you have slop in that rod because of this… the carb will suck air thru this enlarged bore hole… and that will ruin almost all efforts to tune the carb properly. Idle will be affected as well as mixture as unmetered air will lean out the mix… its no bueno.
SO… depending on the condition of your base plate etc… You may want to see if you can find a new base plate with a nice tight seal between the rod and the plate.
Just some advice to help your rebuild efforts bear fruit in the end… nothing worse than doing the entire build and have it sullied by that base plate condition.
Thanx, done a lot of carb rebuilds on smaller stuff, snowcats, bikes etc. Just never had the need to do a truck. You guys have been very helpfull.
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