I bought this old girl new in 1972 for the outrageous price of $3,295.00, never sell it, too many memories, kinda part of the family.
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Good luck and please post your results.
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I believe I’ve read “oldtimer” car magazines in which they described such scenarios. They mentioned that some machine shop(s) had created brass or bronze bushings to restore the bore hole to the stock size, thus allowing the carburetor to be saved
Anybody here had that done, or done it themselves . . . ?!
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I believe that’s what the issue was on the carb on the 79 Jeep I had, the butterfly bore had “hogged out”. It’s been a while, so I’m not certain. It would idle high when you let off the gas normally (slowly), but you could blip the throttle and then it would idle normally. I seem to recall a mechanic telling me it would do this because those bores were worn and the butterfly would get slightly cockeyed and hang. The abrupt throttle blip would free it. I also seem to recall him mentioning those larger bushings.
The Jeep had a 304 and a Motorcraft 2 barrel. I think it was a Motorcraft 2100… Is that even a thing, or did my mind pull those numbers out of somewhere else? Curious how good my memory is…
I do remember that I just got a reman carb from Napa for around $200, maybe $250. It worked great. Of course Napa moved, then changed to Big A (I think, I don’t really go there anymore). So I don’t know if you could just go in and order a reman/rebuilt carb anymore or what kind of quality it would be if you could get one.
Mainly I’m curious if a Motorcraft 2100 is even a real model number. 2100 may be a safe deposit box number or something else that I’m supposed to remember 
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It’s not a myth…
Keep in mind that soaking the carburetor body and so in in carburetor solvent is the first step after disassembly. Then wash thoroughly with water and blow all passages out with compressed air.
A 5 gallon can of carb solvent is a pricy and if you are not equipped with an air compressor it might be best to just buy a rebuilt unit.
Would you explain what you mean by “float is level”? I don’t see how adjusting the idle jets would affect the float orientation. Does the idle jet adjustment actually affect the float position?
The solvent with parts basket, approximately 3/4 of a gallon, runs $24-28.
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I’m not aware of a MC 2100 model. The Motorcraft 2150 is the common carb, an update of the Autolite 2100. The main difference is the MC 2150 uses metering rods that poke into the jets to sedate or titillate the flow depending on the driving situation, while the 2100 has fixed jets. There’s Holley 2150 versions too, which I presume are functionally equivalent to the MC 2150. the Holley versions are not identically configured to the MC versions though.
Even better than the legendary Fish Canadian carb?
Rather than trying to measure the height of the float when the needle is seated the proper fuel level can be set by setting the float to sit level in the bowl when the fuel level rises. And when the float level is correct the fuel level will be correct and the idle jets will be near 1-1/2 turns open to run smooth. If the float tang is not disturbed during disassembly it will be very near correct when re-installed.
When I rebuild those carburetors and have the car I install the bowl, start the engine to verify the float level by sight and by moving the jets in and out. When I bench build them for the owner to install I fill the bowl with kerosene to verify the float is correct then empty it to finish assembly. Holding a straight edge on top of the inverted bowl and measuring the float level is a pain as is every other method of measuring the float depth. The top of the float is flat and level and when set at the correct depth it will float level across the top.
It seems that I was forced to unscramble poorly assembled carburetors over the years and found that on the Ford 2bbls and GM Q-Jets getting the float level correct was somewhat simple and certain with the top off and the engine running. You would be amazed at the problems that can result from an inexperienced person trying to assemble a carburetor. If you ever get hold of a Carter YF on an engine that runs like it has a plugged cat drop me a line here and I’ll tell you the secret to correcting the problem that I found on a factory bebuilt carburetor from NAPA.
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I’ve had throttle rod openings rebushed successfully by a machine shop years ago. Skilled labor was a lot less expensive then. Today I’d probably just buy another carb.
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No Mr @Rod_Knox I would NOT be surprised at the problems that can result… Oh man, you have me thinking of some funny scenarios and P#$$@# Off people now… Also a few fires as well just to keep it interesting. Oh brother