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Car vibrate when stop at light

Often my car would vibrate when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign. Is that normal for all cars that have aged? My car is 2008 and have ~70k miles. Is there something going bad or is there some maintenance that I should be doing and missed?
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  • edited February 2011
    Something's not right. My '08 Fit is smooth as silk while idling. The problem could be in the ignition system, clogged fuel injectors, or even a broken motor mount.
  • edited February 2011
    What's the RPM reading when the car is vibrating?

    What kind of transmission do you have?

    Describe the vibration.

    Any noise along with it?

    Has your fuel mileage changed at all?

    How long has it been vibrating like this?
  • edited February 2011
    And does it continue to vibrate when you put it in neutral?

    By the way, when you say "vibrate" do you mean physically or audibly? Or both?
  • edited February 2011

    "is there some maintenance that I should be doing and missed?"

    I don't have the ability to consult a Honda Fit Owner's Manual, but you do.
    If you take a look at your manual and compare the Honda maintenance schedule contained therein with your maintenance receipts from the past two years, you will be able to tell whether you have maintained the car adequately.

    That being said, it is possible that you have a broken motor mount, but I think it is more likely that skipped maintenance is to blame for this "vibration".
  • edited February 2011
    The RPM is a bit **EDITED** LOWER than 1000 RPM. I have the AUTO transmission. It don't happen all the time. The vibration is at the steering wheel. Kindda like engine vibrating I guess. I do not notice any extra noise but I have to open my window to examine it. The mileage seems unchanged. I forgot when the vibration happens but MAYBE the last 10k or 20k.

    It do not vibrate when I put it in neutral but I THINK I can hear it in the engine.

    Vibrate physically.

    Thanks
  • edited February 2011
    I do all my oil change to synthetic before the oil change reminder reach 10%.

    Filters are good.

    I did not know about the transmission fluid change until ~50K which I did right away. I when to dealer to work on that and they told me to just do plug and drain instead of flush.

    The only thing I know that I suppose to change is spark plug at 65k.
  • edited February 2011
    My daily driving involves a lot of going over drainage bump. But it don't happen all the time.

    I also notice that SOMETIME if I have idle vibration and I had to rev up the engine to get on ramp etc. When I idle again sometime it goes away.
  • edited February 2011
    Just to add to my symptoms.

    I also notice that SOMETIME if I have idle vibration and I rev up the engine to get on ramp etc,when I idle again sometime it goes away.

    **EDIT** Sometime after I fill up my tank the vibration goes away too.

    The vibration is not violent but it's not smooth in idle as expected. I will examine more on my drive home tonight.
  • edited February 2011

    "The only thing I know that I suppose to change is spark plug at 65k."

    You told us that your car has ~70k on the odometer, but you did not tell us if you did actually change the spark plugs at 65K miles. (60K miles would be more typical, but perhaps your model has an atypical interval of 65k)

    In any event, fouled spark plugs can definitely cause uneven idling, as well as a reduction in fuel economy, reduced power, and difficulty in starting the engine. If you have not yet experienced problems with starting--trust me--you will if you don't replace those spark plugs.

    Or, in other words, if you have decided to "save money" by not having the spark plugs replaced on schedule, you are undoubtedly wasting money and contributing to the symptoms that you are currently experiencing. When you replace them, make sure that you use the same brand and model number that are specified in your Owner's Manual. Other brands/models of spark plugs are unlikely to work as well as the ones specified by Honda's engineers.

    And--whatever you do--DO NOT use Bosch's fancy "high technology" spark plugs. I have seen a huge number of problems resulting from the use of those plugs.


  • edited February 2011
    1000+ is too high an idle for a fully warmed up engine. You should be at about 750+/-50. The vibration you feel is the engine straining against the torque converter.

    Possible causes for high idle include a bad IAC and a bad temp sensor. The Idle Air Controller controls idle speed, and the temp sensor if it's bad could be telling the ECU that the engine is colder than it is, upping the idle. I'm going to suggest the temp sensor, because the IAC should throw a code and the temp sensor will not.

    Take it to your shop and have it looked at.

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