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Won't go in gear

Hi!!!
I replaced the trust bearing,pressure plate,clutch disc and pilot bearing on my 07 honda civic lx,turned the car on and wont go in gear,so I replaced the CMC and slave cylinder and I still have the same problem.
Also if I try to turn the car on in gear it will launch forward and the fork is not moving.
Please I need help

How does thee clutch pedal feel when you press on it. Does it go to the floor with no resistance? Does it go to the floor with normal resistance but no free play at the top?

Yes it goes to the floor with no resistance.

The clutch plate may be in backwards. There is a “this side toward engine” on one face of the clutch plate. Or something could have become lodged between the clutch plate and flywheel or clutch plate and pressure plate. It is also possible that you were sold the wrong clutch plate or pressure plate.

Another possibility is that the fork has come loose from the pivot. If what you are calling the thrust bearing is what I call the throwout bearing, it may have come in two pieces and you are now missing one piece, or it could be in backwards.

throw-out bearing problem is what I think of first w/this symptom, after a new clutch install. Some sort of misalignment between flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, engine & transmission, next in line. Faulty parts or parts installed in wrong orientation after that. don’t try to force it to work. just take it apart again to find out what’s wrong.

One more thing as this one bit me once, my first clutch repair. I didn’t get the block and transmission perfectly aligned, I thought the bolts would pull them together when I tightened them. The guide pins where hung up preventing the two from coming together.

When y’all get through laughing, remember it was my first time and it was a Fiat.

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Did you like your Fiat? They look fun, but I’ve heard the build quality is not very good. Also, I don’t think I can put a new clutch in myself. I am a little worried about that, buying a standard with 90K miles, because it’s going to be expensive.

Kevin , this thread is not about a Fiat . Keith was referring to something he did some time ago .

Refuses to Go Into Gear . If the car will not shift after engaging the clutch and trying to move the stick, take a look at the fluid to make sure that it is at the right level. Other causes include using the incorrect thickness (type) of fluid and the clutch linkage or shift cables needing adjustment.

If your clutch pedal goes to the floor with NO resistance then…your problem lies right there. Are you able to row through the gears with the engine OFF? It sounds as if you are able to get the trans in gear, so…you need to bleed your clutch slave cylinder and be sure that the unit is working/moving.

The clutch fork could also have popped off of its fulcrum…but that is rather easy to diagnose and ID that issue. If your slave is moving and has been bled properly then the next item would be the clutch fork/throwout bearing. You cannot install the pressure plate backward but you can install the clutch disc backwards…one side is designated to point in a specific direction and since I have never installed one incorrectly I am not sure what symptom presents itself if you did install it backwards, however…my guess is the symptom would be that you cannot fully depress the clutch pedal as one side of the clutch disc protrudes more than the other side and would prevent the throwout bearing/clutch fork to move its full capability maybe…dunno never did that before.

My money is on the clutch slave/master… or clutch fork/throwout bearing issue. You should be able to verify the slave is working properly as you can see it as well as the fork on the side of the trans… Have an assistant work the clutch pedal while you watch the slave and fork move…it moves quite a bit when working properly. Remove that rubber boot and get some light in there also to help you see whats what. Shouldn’t be hard to ID the issue really.

Donna, do you even read what the thread is really about before you post these Wikipedia type copies ?

Back in the day, I drove a 100-4 Austin Healey and I worked as a mechanic. Clutch was worn. I took a used driven disk to my usual clutch/brake reliner. The worked mostly on trucks and heavy equipment pieces. The owner said since this is your car, I will personally reline this as you watch. He did. The lining was so thick, and the mechanical linkage so old and worn, that it would not disengage. I made an adjustable link and slowly made it longer until all was well. I couldn’t complain to the reliner, as he was trying to do me a favor.
Years later, I bought a used TR6 with a worn clutch. I bought an OEM clutch kit. When I removed the worn pressure plate, I noticed it was incorrect. To make it work, they had modified the linkage to the slave cylinder. Once again, I made an adjustable piece and and all was well.
If the OP purchased the correct pieces, it’s installed incorrectly, has fallen apart, or the hydraulics have air in them. It should be easy to see if the slave is moving.

I know is been a week since I post this,but didn’t have time to work on my car until today.
So I bleed the system like 15 times and finally got pressure in my pedal, also I can see the slave cylinder moving the fork like 1/2" but it still not going in gear.
I feel like I installed the clutch disc backwards or CMC is not adjust properly ?