2006 PT Crruiser, let me give a little history please.
At first the car would not start if it sat in the sun, I did not believe my daughter, it was true. In the morning the car crunk fine, in the afternoon and evening if it sat in the sun it would not start, when you turn the key it would not make a sound, couldn’t be the starter. That went on for awhile, after getting frustrated and stranded many time we had a mechanic check it out, they said it was a relay and bypassed it without our knowledge, we thought the car was fix, cost $ 175.00 for that, after awhile the car just stop cranking again, that’s when we found out they by passed the relay and at that time we can see that it was blow a fuse, 10amp, replaced fuse and the car keep blowing it and didn’t start, then it stop blowing the fuse and nothing at all. Then we put everything the original way, meaning we toke the bypass off from the relay, and nothing, what’s y’all think, didn’t won’t to invest in relays if it’s not going to work. Could it be the relays, it’s only two, and they may fix the first original problem as well?, HELP, we really like the car hate to junk it.
Don’t return to the mechanic that by passed the relay. He’s not to be trusted… and likely lacks the necessary skills and expertise.
If you have a shop in your area that specializes in automotive electrics, that might be a good option.
A reputable independently owned and operated shop might also be able to get to the source of the problem.
Post back. It’s impossible to do the diagnosis from here, but we do care.
Actually it could be the starter. I had a problem on my Corolla one time where the fused circuit that powered up the starter solenoid was blowing the fuse. Replacing the starter motor fixed that. What happens, that circuit is only supposed to be powered up briefly, enough to get the solenoid to set in the contact-on position, then the starter motor itself is powered up and supposed to crank and start the car. But if the solenoid contacts are faulty, corroded & burned, that last part doesn’t happen and an over-current condition occurs in the solenoid circuit instead. I also – as temporary experiments – bypassed this and that, clutch safety switch, under-dash starter relay, before finally realizing what what happening.
The way to get to the bottom of it is to measure the voltage at the two starter motor terminals during attempted cranking. They should both measure 10.5 volts or more, terminal to starter case. If they both do and the starter doesn’t crank the engine, replace the starter. If one or both measures under that, work backwards toward the battery to find out why.
As posted by @the_same_mountainbik above, that relay shouldn’t have been bypassed without your permission or knowledge. When an experienced shop does something like that, it is done as a temporary experiment only, towards diagnosing the actual problem. The relay is there for a reason and bypassing it permanently could make the vehicle unsafe to operate or even catch on fire.
The problem might be with the Totally Integrated Power Module.
This isn’t just a fuse box. But it’s a small computer that controls everything electrical in the vehicle.
And one of the things this module controls is the voltage to the secondary side of the starter relay.
This is such a known problem that they’re sold on EBAY.
Tester