Hero, check on if the head bolts get replaced and make sure the holes and threads are really cleaned up. There is a crazy shaped tool to remove BMW e-36 radios and I believe HVAC displays (BMW does not say HVAC but they say IKEA,or something close,like the furniture store) well this little tool with 5 sides will fool you everytime you try and put an allen wrench in it.
Those torx bolts on the transmission get damaged easy because it is easy to use the wrong size, one time twisting with the wrong size and it is time to start getting inguineous.
My dad ended up calling me the other day to complain about replacing a wheel bearing in his 1990 Chevy Cavalier. They are held into the spindle by three T-55 bolts. The two Torx drivers he doesn’t own are T-55 and T-60, both of which are used on various GM chassis applications. Those drivers usually need to be purchased separately, but are a normal addition to the tool set of anyone who works on GM vehicles.
BTW, I have bought numerous tool sets in order to have everything, and duplicates, at work and at home, and am not sure I have ever bought a set that didn’t include 16mm or 18mm sockets. The last set I bought even had 20mm, which I have never seen used anywhere.
To add a little more to the T 55 situation, there are two versions of T 55, one has wider “flats” than the other. My recollection is the wide one is for seat belts, let me check my box in the morning.
20mm open end is for GM fuel filters, now a socket I will have to think a bit, perhaps oil sending unit, but there is a special deep one (really two) for that.
I was one of those guys that just loved the iron section of the tool trucks, had to have every version, short,middle, deep, 6 point, twelve point short magnetic, long magnetic,really got into 1/4 drive stuff, it just went on and on. Don’t forget the pocket screwdriver, you can do alot with it.
“On the other subject of wrenches , use whatever socket or wrench fits the bolt or nut with the best tight fit.If you have a bolt with a rusted 10mm head, see if a 3/8ths fits better.”
It should also be stated that one should NEVER, NEVER reuse a removed bolt. Always replace it with a new one. Also, you must always use SAE grade bolts. Common hardware store bolts may fit, but they are usually of lower property class and may not hold up under stress.
SAE metric bolts usually have a property class of 12.9, while hardware store bolts might be 8.8 or lower.
Don’t try to remove rusted or damaged bolts with a cheap set of tools as the tool may break. SAE tools are usually stronger and will do a better job than a cheap discount store set.
Pounding on brake rotors or drums with a large hammer can be mechanical murder on wheel bearings. Look up “Brinell the bearings” for more. A large three jaw puller would be best if there are no extraction screw threads as were mentioned. A last resort for me when nothing else is possible, is a 4 or 6 foot length of 4 x 4 wood used as a ram against a rotor to hopefully reduce the sharpness of impact to wheel bearings. Brake drums often have a projecting annular feature or enough edge exposed to make this method work.
BTW, I have bought numerous tool sets in order to have everything, and duplicates, at work and at home, and am not sure I have ever bought a set that didn’t include 16mm or 18mm sockets. The last set I bought even had 20mm, which I have never seen used anywhere.
The only sizes you really need are (from Wikipedia):
WW: To soften the hammer impact I used a 2x4 on the rotor as I constantly changed impact point.
Concerned about harming the bearing I gave up and lefthe rotor in place.
Tne inside third of the rotor wascored and since installing a new bake pad has smoothed out. (From 105 mph I coast down and then very gently start braking at about 50.)
Ametrika, that is inaccurate information from Wikipedia or it was meant for an industry other than automotive. Wrench (and socket) sizes 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 18mm, and 21mm are very common and used daily.