Been driving 05 equinox this week. Seems smooth till I hit 60 mph today. Felt like wheel was going to fall off. Got home and lifted front and pass tire would not spin. Idling motor in gear also would not turn wheel. Driver side spins fine. Like locked caliper? Didn’t feel much heat. But I don’t have IR gun. So, what’s going on when car is smooth at 50 but vibrates at 60+? Rotor is hot now. Wheel won’t turn. Will wheel turn when it’s cool? Wheel bearing?
Caliper that won’t retract. Stuck piston most likely OR failed brake hose. Been there, done that with an 04 GM product.
The bearing should let you know it is failing by growling at you.
Raise that tire.
Grab that tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 o:clock positions and try rocking the tire in and out.
If the tire rocks, the bearing is shot.
Tester
If brake is dragging what sort of dynamics are happening to cause the vibration but only above 55mph or so? It’s 94f today. Don’t feel like digging into it now. Maybe in morning
Slight variation in the rotor surface that rubs the pad each rotation. Heat builds unequally at the spot and setd up the vibration at the same speed as an out of balance tire. Best I can figure is the answer. It happened to me exactly as you describe and it was the brake hose failing.
2hrs later wheel spins fine with trans in neutral. Motor off
Wheel was frozen when idling in gear but it was 1 min after I got home
I did not try to spin it with motor off and in neutral though.
I live on hill. If I stop and release brake, it does not roll easily
It could be that one or both of the caliper pins are frozen/stuck. The caliper floats on these two pins. Remove the wheel and look at the brake pads. If the outer pad is a lot thinner than the inner pad, the pins need to be removed and lubricated, and the pads replaced. Maybe the rotor too.
You May recall the odd brake issue with my kids vue. Has “antidive” braking. New rear shoes/drums make no difference. Feels like her brakes have very little front braking
My nox stops good. If I hit brakes hard the front has a good amount of “dive” feel. But it feels like it won’t than roll easy when I release brake pedal. Like the front calipers are not releasing.
Maybe the brakes are sticking a little, which heats ups the discs as you drive, and causes them to warp. If they warp enough the wheel won’t turn easily b/c the disc will be interfering w/the pads. When the discs cool they return to their normal flatness. To prove/disprove this theory, drive the car enough to slightly heat up the discs, then measure the run-out, comparing that to what it measured before the drive.
nox will move. but i couldnt spin wheel when hot. Pads are even. Slide pins are fine. Caliper pistons? Nox website says caliper is issue. Pistons slide in bores. Corrosion in bores? Just pushed pistons back. Easy. Opened bleed port.
You don’t make things easy do you? 
Nox site said calipers get hot and cause issue. Cool off and it goes away. Brake pedal raises brake fluid pressure and piston extends. Tiny bit. Hi clamp force. Release pedal, low clamp force. So pad always drag. A bit. Except mine
Did you check for free play in those wheel bearings/hub?
yes. wheel bearing feels tight.
i tried to bleed brakes. used hose/bottle method.
open bleeder 1/4 turn and it takes 5-8 sec to reach floor with MUCH pedal pressure. I than cracked open fitting from steel line to rubber hose and it cuts time in 1/2? I say restricted flex hose
Had wifey push pedal so I could watch hose/bottle and even she said why is the pedal effort so slow?
Are the face of both pads parallel to the corresponding rotor surface? It certainly seems possible that the caliper could heat up and malfunction only when hot, as the web advice your found suggest.
pads look good. parallel surfaces and thick. i ordered 2 sets of front hoses from amazon. going to change the hoses on my kids vue too. hopefully this will solve both of our brake issues.
darn rear control arm bushing is slightly loose. its alum one at top. arm is steel and goes into a steel sleeved bushing. i changed it on my last nox as i thought it was the noise issue but it turned out to be the strut mount. tossed old bushing in the trash. though it was good. grr.
You are not alone. I was crawling underneath my truck the other day & noticed the front radius arms, each of them need new bushings, and not just on one end, on each end. grrrr … lol …
Old brake hose seems ok. Put on new one. Still would not bleed thru caliper port. I took off caliper banjo bolt and inspected the thru hole. Fluid is dripping from new hose just fine. Bolted it all up. Pump brakes again and it works now? Pedal goes to floor like you would expect. I’m not sure if it’s fixed or not.
Drove at 55 for 1 mile. Felt ok. Wheel spun fine at home