What is the best car engines

i am having a intention to buy a new car, can you help me a idea to buy one which is the best car engines

This post will get endless responses/arguments. Majority of modern engines, with proper maintenance, are good for 250,000 miles.

Best for what? Acceleration? Mileage? Reliability? Longevity? Economy?
What type of car? Sports car? Luxury car? Minivan?
And how big is your budget?

Perhaps your best bet is to get one or two consumer magazines’ car issues that have empirical data and review their comparisons. They’ll offer an overview of everything available.

Us? We’re all biased. And many of us are biased toward totally different cars :smile:


Purebred is correct , any modern vehicle is fine . Why are you worried about the engine instead of a vehicle that meets your needs? Also what vehicle to buy is subject to many personal preferences for a forum. Go to the manufactures web sites and you will get prices and options to help you choose.

Step 1 is to figure out what you need your vehicle to do. A rural driver that has to periodically haul big stuff but just one or two other people has different needs that a family of six that has to go to a lot of different activities. And they’re both different from someone that has to drive 30 miles one way to work.

If you read the sales literature from the car manufacturers you will probably find that each company has engines that are superior to the offerings of all other companies.

If you inquire of an online blog you will probably find that each person responding owns or is loyal to a particular brand that is superior to the others, including those that others claim are best.

So much of it is opinion. Think of it like asking, “Which flavor of ice cream is best?”

Look at and test drive some vehicles and make of list of the cars that suit your needs at a price you feel is good. Then compare the warranty coverage that manufacturers provide with their vehicles. Those are not all the same. A warranty requires the manufacturers to “put their money where their mouth is” when making claims of selling the best product. Companies making claims of being superior, but offering inferior warranty coverage could be putting your money where their mouth is.
CSA :palm_tree::sunglasses::palm_tree:

If you live in the rust belt,you can expect the engine to outlast the rest of the vehicule.I had to junk a lot of cars because the body and frame rusted out but engines were still good. Most modern engines,if maintained properly, can go in excess of 250k miles.

Do you live in the USA? If not, where do you live? I ask because your post reads like English could be a second language. We live in North America primarily and can comment best on those vehicles. Some knowledgeable folks that post here live in Europe and a few have lived elsewhere, too.

Usually, in todays FWD / AWD cars, the transmission will fail long before the engine and will cost just as much to replace…


These are features to look for if you want improved engine life and reliability in a gasoline econobox style engine.

my opinion only, of course, and not in any particular order

  • metal water pump impeller
  • recommended for 87 octane gasoline (means it doesn’t have excessive compression)
  • avoid direct injection
  • designed so it is easy to change engine oil and filter
  • easy to check and correct out of spec valve clearance
  • timing belt designs are easy to service, but need periodic replacement. Still are probably the better choice between chain and belt designs overall.
  • avoid transverse oriented “V” engines
  • avoid horizontally opposed engines

First of all that is just nonsense , and how do you plan to avoid that in today’s world.

Some years back, it was believed that a short piston stroke was a big factor in the longevity of an engine. Consumer Reports used to list a statistic called piston travel in feet per mile at 60 mph. The less the piston travel, the longer the piston rings would last. That statistic today is useless. Engines today from any manufacturer are good for over 200,000 miles.

I agree with George. Too many V-style transverse mounted engines gave rear banks that are simply difficult to access, making maintenance more difficult and more costly. I won’t buy a transversely mounted V-style engine.

I do, however, prefer a timing chain to a timing belt. Again because a timing chain is pretty much forever, and there are too many problems that result from improperly timed belts after maintenance and the cost is too high.

@George_San_Jose1, I would have a caveat about picking only engines that use 87 octane fuel (avoiding excessive compression). In today’s world of CAFE smaller engines are needed to meet fuel economy guidelines and those smaller engines need to make big horsepower in order that the cars they power are able to get out of their own way in traffic. There are 2 ways to do this: higher compression (requiring higher octane fuel) or turbo-charging. I know engine technology has advance tremendously in the last 20 years, but I still worry about an engine (turbo-charged) that puts out up to 2 1/2 or 3 times the horsepower per cubic inch lasting for several hundred thousand miles without needing major surgery. I’ll stick with a higher compression engine and pay the extra $.10/gallon for the 89 octane fuel. Best example: my 2015 Cherokee has a 3.2L V6 putting out 271 HP; the 2019 version is available with a 2.0L turbo IL4 that puts out 270 HP. I believe a larger engine would be less stressed than a smaller engine with the same horsepower.

While I agree that it’s obnoxious to access the rear bank of a transverse-V… I guess I’m also of the “so what?” mindset.

It’s not like the old days when you needed new plugs a lot. You can go 100k before you need to replace them. That’s around 10 years of driving. Having to surgery-down to something once every 10 years is just not a big deal. You’ll do it a maximum of 10 times before you’re dead if you start long before you learn how to drive. :wink:

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You left out: no turbocharger.

I disagree on timing belt, timing chain is much more reliable.

And it is possible to get adequate power without turbocharging or high compression and with good economy. I have one, unfortunately it is an opposed 4, and out by your definition.

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the best engine is a properly maintained one.

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I’ve successfully avoided them so far. I only purchase rear or rear/4WD vehicles. It’s not too difficult.

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My Mustang has a rather high 11:1 compression ratio and is rated to run on regular 87 octane gasoline.

My former 2000 Honda S2000 had the same compression ratio but ran on at least 91 octane premium.

High compression no longer guarantees the need for premium fuel.

Not to be contrary, but the engine will be the least of your worries in buying a new vehicle. The single item that will determine your satisfaction with the vehicle will be the drivers seat. A vehicle with an uncomfortable seat will be torture to drive, especially on long trips.

Seats however are a personal thing. What is comfortable for one can be a major backache for another. As you narrow your choices, sit in the drivers seat for at least one hour, even if you have to sit in the seat in the parking lot or showroom as some dealers won’t let you take one out on an hour long test drive.

When your sure you have the right one, you might consider renting one of the same model for a weekend and drive your normal routes, like to work and back and to your regular shopping locations. Then you should know for sure.

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