I have always preformed most of the maintenance work on my own cars and pickups. I have done many drum brake jobs, but now have a 2004 Buick and need to replace frt. pads and roters. I get the tell tale sweek and the viberation when I apply the brakes. do I need any special tools for the job and what do I need to be aware of that I did not encounter on the old drum brakes.
Pick up a Haynes repair manual at the parts store. Read that section and it will tell you all you need to know.
If it has ABS, loosen the bleeder screws and retighten them before removing the calipers. Then before forcing the pistons back into the calipers, connect a hose to the bleeder that goes into a jar. Crack open the bleeder and force the piston into the caliper. This prevents the back-forcing of the old brake fluid into the ABS pump. Once the piston is set into the caliper, tighten the bleeder.
Tester
AutoZone advertises that they have a system that allows you to view a step by step instruction video/slide show for common repairs,chech out what they are offering,let us know if it was helpful.
When was the last time you did a brake job??? I have to go back to the early 70’s to find a car that had front drum brakes.
Contrary to Tester, I have pushed caliper pistons in without opening the bleeder on a GM car with ABS. I had no problem but I suppose it is easy enough to do either way.
I’d bleed all four wheel cylinders when finishing up to get some fresh fluid in the system. There may be special ways to do this with ABS but I just bleed the cylinders and go. Use a helper to hold the brake pedal down while you open and close the bleeder valves; don’t just drain. The reason for this is to get some turbulence in the wheel cylinders to stir up and hopefully flush out debris.
The only special tools that you might need are a Torx type tool (some require an Allen wrench) for the two caliper bolts and a tool to push the piston back into the caliper. The push tool can be easily home made; is just a stiff metal bar with a hole in the middle and a bolt with one hexnut. Add a flat washer if you want to be fancy. A large “C” clamp can work too.
A trick that I use to prevent twisting off a possibly rusty bleeder valve is to use a 1/2" drive impact wrench set at a very low torque with the correct size socket of course; so low that the impact wrench barely works. If you twist off the bleeder valve, there is a repair kit for that; otherwise you buy a new caliper; not a wallet breaker.
Clean rust off rotor mounting surfaces to prevent wobble. Caliper mounting surfaces must be clean also.