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VW check engine light

My previous question was that the check engine light keeps coming on in my 01 Beetle. I’ve taken it to my local repairman with an 02 sensor and dip stick tube being replaced. I followed previous advice from an earlier response and took it to our local parts store. The diagnostic was “bank one - too lean”. The person at the store said it could be something as simple as poor gas. The aforementioned repair shop said they thought it could (eventually) be the fuel injectors. The code is cleared now, and no light, but I’ve only driven it a day. Thoughts from anyone?

Thanks so much! I really appreciate the response to my earlier question!

Do not assume that the absence of a CEL right now is a sign of normality.
Wait for the code to reappear, as it inevitably will after you have driven for a few days.
Then, take the car to a well-reputed independent VW mechanic who should be familiar with the quirks and characteristics of these cars.

You need a new Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor. It’s a fairly common problem with these cars.

If a problem still exist, the CEL will return. This time get the actual code. It will be in a format like [P1234]. Many auto part stores will read the code for free. If you can get a weeks worth of driving with no repeat CEL, you might be good to go.

Note: MrBean may be correct, but likely you will not need to replace the MAF, as they usually can be cleaned.

 I have missed the prior question,  That is why it is a good idea to reply to your original question if you have something to add, or at least explain the original question.  I really don't want to have to hunt for it. 

 So tell us what the original problem was.   BTW has anyone replaced the air filter with a K&N life time filter?

My original posting follows. Since that time, I’ve decided to keep the car and figure out the problem…hence my second posting. I’m due for an oil change, soon, so I will check on the air filter. Obviously finding someone that knows the quirks of the car, other than my original dealer that charges $100 just for diagnostic, is part of my dilemma. Thanks, everyone!

I have an 01 VW New Beetle whom I have loved dearly for 8 years.She now has 83Kmiles but runs great. I’ve been very satisfied with my car, but lately she’s been pitching me fits. The check engine light keeps coming on. I’ve taken it to my local reputable car repair shop and they first ran it on the diagnostic, didn’t find anything, cleared the code and it was fine…for about 4 weeks. It came on again, I took it in again and they replaced the 02 sensor to the tune of $250. Guess what? In two weeks it came on again. THIS time they replaced the dip stick “tube”, didn’t charge me for labor and sent me on my way. Well, needless to say, two weeks later it was on again. They just laughed, put it on the diagnostic again, drove it for about 30 minutes, cleared the code and basically told me to “have a nice day” and not worry about it since the car was running great. They did say they could start replacing very expensive parts that showed up as “possibles” but since it was running well that they were trying to save me money. So…my question is, do I keep driving her without concern and not worry about the light until I notice something tangible like poor performance or gas mileage? I will probably have them check it at each oil change. Any suggestions or advice you could give would be appreciated!

Unfortunately, clearing a trouble code and sending you on your way does not resolve a problem–as you have found. The equivalent with a housekeeper would be allowing her to sweep dirt under the carpet, rather than actually cleaning the house.

It is clear that your current mechanic has reached the limits of his expertise with your car, and while he may be pleasant and reputable, he is clearly not the sharpest knife in the drawer. Use the mechan-x files on this site, plus the help of friends and neighbors to locate a mechanic in your area who does have expertise with VWs.

Even if the car is currently “running great”, you owe it to yourself to have the current problem resolved before it cascades into multiple (more expensive) problems.

Agreed, If it’s a 1.8T engine, then MAF is what you need.