Lean the other way. These were designed to be cheap, throwaway cars.
I have a buddy whose family owned 2. His wife snd daughter had one each. He worked on them constantly and cursed them endlessly as each approached 100,000 miles. They are essentially at the end of their lives at 130,000 miles.
The convertible adds a layer of cost and complexity you don’t want to deal with.
You need to buy the most well maintained car for $3000 you can find. That leaves you $1000 for those things you will need as soon as you buy the car. Pay your mechanic to inspect the car before you buy it.
Make a list of every hatchback sold in the 2000s, then look for the one in the best condition. At 10 to 20 years old, condition is much more important than brand. Be patient. Odds are any car you find will be around for at least a month or two give the economy these days. People looking for inexpensive cars are the ones that are out of work. After you find an excellent car, have a mechanic you trust make a pre-purchase inspection. If all is good, make an offer.
If your car will be on your mother’s insurance policy, I believe she has to be on the title. If she isn’t, the insurer will see through your game quickly and make you get insurance on your own.
@Zumerical - You should have your mother talk to the insurance carrier because you need to have an idea of the cost of insurance before you spend your money . I doubt if there is any state that will let the title or insurance be in a 16 year old persons name .
Very good points from everyone that has commented. The insurance cost factor will be a big issue! Especially for a teenager in a convertible, which is something I didn’t even think about at 1st.
It may be possible for a 16 year old to get insurance in his own name, but then there is the issue of cost. A policy in the name of a 16 year old male would likely cost almost as much per year as he wants to pay for his car.
I live in southern Arizona, so cars do not rust here. The PT Cruiser was one of the most common cars on the road here for a long time, but now is much less common. Interestingly, the model years which I see on the road constantly are 2001-2003, which are recognizable because they have a lock cylinder on the front passenger door and rear hatch.
The newer models seem to have disappeared to the junkyards, and I have no doubt that is due to electrical problems (no TIPM in 2001-2003), deterioration of the interior (Daimler cost-cut the hell out of this model starting in 2004), and oil leaks/engine problems (Daimler cost-cut the engine bearings–especially the thrust bearing starting in 2005).
While I would not buy a PT Cruiser for the simple reason that this car does not appeal to me, if I was in the market, I’d look for the 2001-2003 models, as they have much higher mechanical reliability and a much higher-quality interior than the newer cost-cut models. I would buy with the understanding that I’m going to have to shell out $1200-1300 to have the timing belt done, unless the seller can provide an invoice from a licensed shop proving that this was already done, and negotiate the price accordingly.
The problem for you is that you live in a region where cars do rust, and a 2001-2003 model may have rusted to the point that it’s no longer safe or reliable. I have no idea how the PT Cruiser holds up in the Rust Belt, as I left Illinois in 2007, and PT Cruisers were still very new and popular at that time.
Something else to consider when it comes to rust; and I’m not trying to rain on the parade.
What may be a simple repair somewhere else may turn into much more expense when rust is involved. To replace one part may end up by necessity involving 3 or 4 more parts plus additional labor.
We had a 4 year old Subaru from MN into the shop once and the owner balked at the repair cost which was vastly higher because of the severe rust issues. I was sipping on a can of Coke and placed it on top of the left front tire; by inserting it through the giant rust hole in the front fender.
Another was a VW with no brakes and it was towed away with no brakes. There was simply no way of repairing the brakes short of replacing every single thing on it. I knew it was a problem when I creeped it into the shop and my feet were resting on a piece of 3/4" plywood to keep both me and the seat from falling through the floor.
That is reminiscent of my late cousin’s '57 Chrysler, which had a hole in the floor big enough for Fred Flintstone to propel it with foot power. Yes, the car came from NY state, where the roads are heavily salted.
I wasn’t sure that the plywood was even going to keep me in the car. I could feel the seat/plywood and all moving up and down and could also see the asphalt in the parking lot and concrete floor in the shop around the edges of the plywood. I kept expecting it to break it half.
Hopefully that car was sent to the crusher after it was towed away although I don’t think there was a lot of metal left. More iron oxide than anything else…
I would hope the young man who started this post takes his time finding a car and avoids the rust buckets because they will be nothing but grief. A bit of time and patience will get him there although there is still that 16 year old and insurance thing to consider.
Whatever car you end up selecting, be sure to have your mechanic give it a thorough check before you buy it. The cost is well worth it to identify any problems and estimated cost to fix.
Convertibles are fun in warm weather but not so much in winter, especially in northern winter’s. A friend had one when we were your age and lived in a wintery climate and discovered the cold way how uncomfortable a convertible is in winter even with the top up. And as old a car as you’ll be able to get for your stated budget the top of any convertible is almost certain to leak like a sieve. Been there, done that, got soaked and frozen.
My 2004 was a base model with tinted windows and dealer installed cruise control. It had a lock cylinder on the hatch and right front door. 2004 was the last year of the good seats and A/C standard. I got the base model because I wanted the steel wheels. Since A/C, power steering and windows and a Radio were standard, the only other thing I wanted was cruise control. Also in 2004 the turn signals were controlled by just flashers and all the brake lights were just controlled by a switch unlike the later ones that used either a body control module or a TIPM
I’ve decided to probably go with the VW Beetle. My brothers father in law works with VW and they live in Washington state so way less issues with rust! My aunt might be offering to give me a 2007 Volvo too
Stay away from the beetle. I had a 2007 and what a money pit. Everything went before it hit 100,000. The check engine lights started very early. After the warranty expired the light would go off once a month. They ate evaporator canisters and the dealer charges like 1’000. I was loyal to VW since the 80’s. I’ve had a lot of problems and I just parted ways with VW for good. I traded in a 2018 Tiguan that was very unreliable and would have been a future money pit. I’m back in a Honda and I’m never going back to VW. Do your self a favor and research the beetle a little more.
I would not buy, own, or accept as a gift a free VW. I know several people who have owned them (note this is past-tense) and they turned into major money pits once the warranty ended.
I agree with the people who said neither. But if you are bound and determined don’t forget the Chevy HHR looks similar to a PT cruiser but a much better automobile any foreign car will be a money pit in my opinion
An opinion that is not shared by many people . And since so domestic branded vehicles are made somewhere besides the US what does ( foreign ) even mean.