Unfortunately. I don’;t know anyone who owns 2005 endeavor.
Doesn’t have to be a 2005, just one similar to yours. Look at the Mitsubishi dealership and the various used car lots in your area.
The oldest SUV my local Mitsubishi dealer has on the lot is a 2016 Outlander Sport. If you were to compare the two I think the solution would be to replace the older vehicle. Be aware that dealers don’t provide vehicles to the public just for diagnostic purposes.
Let’s see, waste time looking for a 12 year old Endeavor with unknown history to drive that may drive fine or be a piece of junk. Or spend the time trying to solve the problem.
UPDATE:
I brought the car to ANOTHER mechanic. This time, the mechanic drove it a lot longer than the previous one. 15-20 minutes on highway/in the city. He even drove it at 60mph and there was no wobbling/vibration. As we were exiting, it finally happened. A very subtle/slight wobbling in the steering wheel. He said it’s normal. It’s most likely the road.
I’m inclined to agree with him. I don’t drive a lot esp on highway. I only use the highway when I go to my local costco and that’s usually when I notice the “wobbling”. It has happened on other highways but not always. So, I think he’s right that it could be just the road.
He said it’s very very unlikely it’s the CV joints because if it is, the “wobbling” would be more of a vibration. It would be more pronounced and I would def know. He also said it would not happen randomly, it would happen constantly or at the very least more frequently.
He said the car is fine. run like new. he was not able to feel/tell anything wrong with the car. the car only needed more coolant, that’s it.
At this time, I think I’m just gonna stop. I’ve had steering wheel vibration before due to warped rotors. This one is def nothing like that. It’s very subtle and I’m gonna trust this 2nd mechanic that it’s probably just the road.
If the vibration gets worse or happens more frequently, I’ll revisit this.
Thanks everyone.
There aren’t many of those dealerships left!
In my neck of the woods, two multi-line dealerships dropped their Mitsu lines w/in the past few years, and are subsisting on selling the remaining brands.
If I wanted to visit a Mitsubishi dealership, I would have to drive at least 50 miles, despite the fact that there are dealerships for virtually every other auto brand w/in a 20 mile radius. Since there are dealerships for brands such as Porsche, Ferrari, Lamborghini, and Lotus w/in 20 miles of my house, but the Mitsu dealers are more than twice as far, I think that tells you something about the sales volume of that dying brand.
At this point the car has been inspected by a lot of mechanics, and it seems reasonable to assume that there’s nothing dangerous happening that puts your health at risk, so my suggestion is to drive it in normal use through 2 tanks of fuel, and try to do anything other than wait for this vibration. Listen to the radio, talk to your passenger, recite the Greek alphabet backwards, anything to distract you from the mechanical goings on. It’s very possible that 500 miles from now it will feel like your car, and you’ll be done with this issue.
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Not a mechanic and don’t know a lot about vehicle’s other than what I’ve personally experienced/dealt with. In my experience vibrating steering wheel can be loose lug nuts(you should routinely check that lug nuts are tight after shop has put them on and/or if you have aluminum rims), I lost two studs once and tire came off another time (2 different vehicles) because I didn’t. Oh and 1st time I thought it was a tirod, second time I thought it was rear strut. Could be a sway bar problem, had that happen when I needed to replace my sway bar linkage. A knot in your tire can cause shaking as will a busted belt. Also sometimes just having low tire ppressure can be the cause. As well as other responses you recieved such as strut. Bad tirod ends, ball joints, wheel barrings can as well. However if the shop you use is good and legit they won’t do an alignment if your tirods, ball joints, wheel barrings, sway bar are noticeably bad because it won’t align correctly with those bad. However, I’ve had shops not tell me things before as well as only half ass inspect my vehicle. I’d start with your lug nuts, tire pressure, and feeling your tires for any knots. Those are all simple and free trouble shooting steps and in my experience have been the issue more often then not. Hope this helps