They’re fine, except when trying to diagnose a problem.
The “road force” balancer works basically the same way, but it adds the dynamic of a spinning drum pressed against the tread to simulate road forces. It can detect anomalies that regular spin balancing cannot.
To the best of my knowledge, Sumimoto is okay. However I did look the consumer reviews up on Tirerack and they’re mixed. I was unable to find your make & model car in the thread, so I used mine. You may want to take a look-see for your tires. https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/desktop/en/homepage.html
Again, I’m NOT trying to dissuade you from getting the axle changed, and hope and suspect that this will solve the problem. I’m just adding information in case it doesn’t.
I’ve had bad u-joints on my 4WD truck on several occasions, and they definitely caused a vibration. But I wouldn’t say that the vibration was in the steering wheel, more like the back wheels of the truck felt like they were vibrating. In any event a rear driveline u-joint is a pretty simple repair in most vehicles.
The weird thing is there’s no vibration at all when I drive in the city… only on highways at 50 or so… I don’t know… maybe it’s nothing? and I make it sound like something else?
It’s never nothing.
At what speed it affects the ride depends on a whole lot of variables. Wheel & tire size & weight, vehicle sprung weight (the two expressed in a ratio are called "spung/unsprng weight ratio), the type of suspension (type of axles, type of springs, that stuff), the type of powertrain, the stiffness of the dampers, the gear ratios in the powertrain (different torque loadings can induce vibration in different ways), and some other stuff.
Bottom line?
(1) You know you need a half-shaft, and that alone can cause a vibration.
(2) you now know that if this doesn’t totally fix it, you can have your wheels checked on a better balancing machine… and that might fix it.
You have two good steps to take. I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you that the new axle will fix it.
It seems the driveshaft/universal joints were identified as failed but dismissed by the next tire shop that inspected the tires. How did the universal joints appear to you when asked? If the universal joints show play the vehicle should not be driven until this is corrected.
Referring back to the first post: A steering wheel vibration occurs at 50 mph, but not always. Any wheel end vibration will be there pretty much 100% of the time, so that would indicate something else is amiss.
If the problem is tire/wheel related, then rotating the tires/wheels should make the vibration move from the steering wheel to the seat back or floor.
I also should point out that many people don’t realize that the vibration may be coming from the road and in their haste to find the source, overlook the test road.
At this point in the thread, it sounds like the problem has been identified - and that’s good. The only reason I am commenting is that I think the new tires were unnecessary and the cost could have been avoided if the OP had done the rotation test. Also, having a vibration on a second set of tires is fairly rare. Not unheard of - which points to the rotation test as what should have been the first step.
Let me start by saying I know nothing about cars. NOTHING.
I brought my car to another mechanic today. He drove it a few blocks in the city and highway. At first he didn’t know what vibration I was talking about. I told him to take his hands off the steering wheel for a second. He did and he saw what I meant. He said it’s normal. He told me you can’t expect things to stay still in a moving car esp at 50mph or more. Even new cars do this, he said . When you take your hands off the steering wheel, of course the steering wheel is gonna “vibrate” because the car is moving. And when I do put my hands on the steering wheel, he’s right, I can’t feel any vibration or pulsation.
However, he agreed the drive shaft joints are bad and need to be replaced.
i recorded the “vibration” when the car was moving but you can’t even see the “vibration” in the video due to driving. That’s how low the “vibration” is.
So, I tried to replicate the "vibration"when the car is parked. Here it is.
Feel free to laugh and thanks to everyone. Sorry for wasting your guys’ time with this
I thought that the vibration only took place at highway speeds, but now it appears that it also takes place when the car is parked. That automatically rules-out your tires, your wheels, the driveshaft, and the axles as the source of the problem.
The only thing I can think of that could possibly cause that type of vibration when the vehicle is parked would be really bad motor mounts.
Yes the vibration only happens when I drive it on highway.
That video was taken when the car was parked but the movement was made by my left hand… It didn’t happen naturally. I was trying to replicate the movement/vibration.
or are saying it shouldn’t be wobbled like that even if I’m moving it with my hand.
I was trying to show you guys the “severity” of the “vibration”. The movement in the video was done on purpose. That’s the level of vibration I was talking about at highway speed which according to the new mechanic I met today is normal?
But I’m getting it’s not normal from your post, correct?
If you want to post a video documenting the condition, take a friend for a ride on the highway. You drive over 50 and let go of the wheel momentarily, and your friend can record it for you.
That automatically rules-out your tires, your wheels, the driveshaft, and the axles as the source of the problem.