So I’m writing this on behalf of my father whose having a lot of issues with his 2011 Vauxhall Meriva. I’m no car expert so I apologize in advance for that but we could really do with some help in figuring out what might be wrong here. We’ve already taken it to a trusted garage and they can’t figure the issue out. Basically for the past few months now, the car stutters and loses power when driving, the dashboard cuts out and the power steering also stops functioning with the car sort of spluttering for a few seconds until everything starts up again and it seems okay. Eventually, the issue reoccurs until we have to pull over and restart the car which does seem to fix the issue for a short amount of time. It’s actually quite scary as you can imagine and with the handbrake also being electronic, we’ve even had the car fall back randomly.
We’ve had a number of codes displayed on the dashboard but they don’t really make any sense to us, they are as follows:
|Code 60|Open and then close the front passenger window.
|Code 61|Open and then close the rear left window.
|Code 62|Open and then close the rear right window.
The garage that we use even connected a high-end diagnosis machine but there were no error codes whatsoever popping up which left them puzzled. They did claim that it might be fuel related and recommended to try using some higher quality fuel (no the supermarket stuff that’s often cheaper) and some Redex which we’ve done. We’ve also had the spark plugs changed for new ones and the coil. We took a look at the battery and checked the connectors too. I’ve looked extensively online for similar issues but had no luck finding a solution. I was wondering if anyone else had a similar experience.
So to give another quick overview of the issues. The car stutters and we lose power when driving and in low revs in particular, which causes the dashboard, all lights, and power steering to stop functioning. it eventually comes back to life but happens again shortly after. It’s not until we restart the car that the issue doesn’t occur as frequently.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, again I’m sorry if I’ve mistaken things here because I’m not too knowledgeable about cars.
I am not familiar with your car being in the US, but to reset those codes basically put your vehicle in the accessory mode. then open and close each window per code listed. example below…
but I don’t think that will solve your loss of power problem. unless they have something to do with your alarm system that may be affecting the vehicle.
This is just a shot in the dark regarding a vehicle that was never sold in The US, but the messages about the windows could be the result of a failing/failed Body Control Module. However, that may not account for the vehicle’s other problems.
Edited in order to add….
Does the OP know if his Dad’s car was ever involved in a flood situation?
Was it purchased as a new car, or was it a used car when his father bought it?
I have no idea either but rented one. Just like a Gm opel or something. Not real clear on your symptom of losing power. If it is losing electrical power you may have an issue with the battery/charging system. When the voltage gets too low, the car will start to drop out along with all the other driven systems like steering and brakes. Or could be one of the main computer components going south like the body control module. Not every issue leaves a computer trouble code. If all the mechanic does is look for codes and then if baffled, he’s not a real mechanic that can check basic electrical and mechanical systems like battery and fuel pressure. The are mechanics and code readers. You need a mechanic.
You are being instructed to initialize the power windows. This is an indication that the battery has been disconnected, there is a poor connection at the battery or in the power distribution center.
Concur w/post above. Symptoms are consistent fundamental electrical power distribution problem, battery on fritz, main fuse or fusible-link intermittent, connection between alternator and battery faulty, etc. A fundamental problem seems like bad news, but it is probably actualy good news, once problem found, easy repair. Did anything unusual happen to car’s electrical system just prior to this problem, like giving it a jump-start, or giving a jump-start to another car?
If you want a suggestion where to start, a battery/alternator test is what I’d do. the diy’er version I use: Before first start of the day, the battery should measure about 12.6 volts; then immediately after starting engine, 13.5 to 15.5 volts.
If problem remains difficult to find, ask your shop if they can connect a lab volt meter where you can see the battery voltage as you drive. Might provide a clue to what’s happening.
USA based forum here, so if there’s a GM close-equivalent to this car, American version, good idea to tell the folks here what it is.
