Ya normal for that year is between 11 to 14
Bet it didnt run a lot better but made a lot more racket ,check the fuel pump again and the computer if possible (its got to be reading wacky )
It run fine when it’s cold but when it warms up it starts acting up
That’s when it goes from open loop to closed loop and the computer takes over. When its cold, the engine is using pre-programed settings for fuel, etc. Once it warms up and goes into closed loop, it is using the actual readings from the sensors. That tells you a sensor of some type must be whacky.
What sencer could it be
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Hmm so replace all the sencers I just put on
It’s the pre-cat O2 sensor that kicks and starts working after it heats sufficiently. That causes the computer to go from open loop into closed loop mode after the engine warms up.
In open loop mode, the engine works like engines of yesterday, with the fuel/air mixture metered mostly by the amount of intake manifold vacuum and intake air flow. In closed loop mode, the O2 sensor is what is primarily used by the engine computer to meter the air/fuel mixture.
So what can I do to solve my problem
Is your’s the truck that has the cat removed? If so, does it still have the pre-cat O2 sensor installed and connected to the engine computer?
Ya it is, ya I think so it don’t have a cat but there is a sencer on the pipe I don’t know what sencer it is
If there’s an O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe immediately after the exhaust manifold, that should be all you need for the computer to go into closed loop mode once it warms up. The check engine light comes on when the key in in “on” but the engine isn’t started, then it goes off once the engine starts, right? Newer vehicles have O2 sensors pre and post cat, but as I recall yours is a 92 or 93, something like that, right? And those OBD I vehicles usually weren’t configured w/ the post-cat sensor. So you should be ok the way it is configured now, as far as engine performance. A shop with a lab scope can check to see if the pre-cat O2 sensor is doing what it is supposed to, at idle anyway. If it wasn’t working at all, that would produce a diagnostic code stored in the computer memory.
A vehicle which idles ok but seems to lose power during acceleration, and no diagnostic codes, that symptom is often caused by an inability to get a sufficient flow of air or fuel into the engine, and/or exhaust gasses out. Sometimes it is necessary for a shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to the outside of the windshield so they can watch what it is doing while driving, esp when the performance problems happen.
I just had it tested the fule pressure was at 13 when in drive,it’s a 94,it well drive fine when it’s warm I can do 70 no problem it’s when u push the pedal passed half way it spits an chokes it’s self I’ll let off a lil it well be fine,just when you give it to much gas is when she don’t like it an acts up
Just to clarify, was the fuel pressure test done with the vehicle in Drive, but stopped? Or does it measure 13 and hold steady even when driving down the road and during accelerations where the symptom shows up too?
It was on a hoist in drive doing 55 mph it read 13 in drive an in park
TPS?
Running the engine in gear on a hoist doesn’t present nearly the same load on the engine as driving on the road.
True they had to hook the fule pressure tester under the driver door in front of the fule filter
Did your truck exhibit the same symptom running on the hoist?
No it didn’t it ran fine