1996 k1500 4.3l

Hello Everyone,

I have being working on this truck for a long time now. The engine was replaced and since then, it has had some sort of problem. By now I am pretty sure I have replaced all sensors, computer, 3 Oxygen sensors, fuel regulator, spark plugs, wires, coil... 

My engine light went on about two weeks ago, but I really did not want to deal with it again, but yesterday, all it took was a little hill for the truck to start having a real hard time to go, to the point that I had to go to the side and let people pass me… so the engine has very little power. I checked and I have 3 error codes, which in my opinion, they are related to the problem.

Error codes are:


I am wondering if two of those codes are happening because of the troublemaker code…

Any help is greatly appreciated,


What’s a troublemaker code?


The P0152 seems like a potential serious problem. Ignore the P1441 for right now. The P0357 is potentially a knock sensor wiring problem OR bad PCM.

Potential causes of an P0152 code include:

Bad bank 2, 1 o2 sensor incorrectly reading rich condition
Engine running rich and o2 sensor
Correctly reading rich condition
Signal shorted to voltage in harness
Wiring harness damage/melted due to contact with exhaust components
Vacuum leak (make have lean codes (P0171, P0174) present with it)
Leaking injectors
Bad fuel pressure regulator

Is this thing really running rich? Smoke out the exhaust? Try unhooking the O2 sensor so the engine runs open loop. If the engine runs sort of OK, the O2 sensor’s wiring may have shorted out somewhere in the harness especially if it also runs to the knock sensor. Check that carefully.

Given that 2 of the 3 codes share electrical wiring possible causes AND PCM possible causes, look to the wiring first. Especially with 24 year old wiring in direct line of fire from R&R of the engine.

Thank you for your reply! Since the O2 sensor is new (about 200 miles), The PCM is even newer (about 100 miles) is there a way to test the voltage coming from the wiring? I thought that two of those wires should read 5 volts…

and no, there is no smoke coming from the exhaust!

Hook a scan tool up to the OBD2 port and read the voltage the PCM is actually seeing. It should cycle up and down quickly but averages about 0.7 volts at the right mixture. If the wire is damaged and shorting all kinds of stupid signals can occur. Start there first and see what the PCM is getting. Or as I suggested, unplug the O2 sensor (Bank 2 - passengers side - upstream) and then read what the PCM reads. If it recognizes the 02 is gone, the engine should run OK but will throw a bad O2 sensor code.

O2 reading

I just do not know how to interpret the reading… What do you think?

I think the video is marked private and I can’t see it.

I just changed it to public! Sorry about that!

It looks about right. A bit compressed to get a really good look but this is how it should look; lean, rich and correct.


Was it actually running badly when you took those readings or was it OK?

Truck was running OK… it seems it only runs bad after and hour or so of driving! Why is that the case? it makes it so much harder to diagnose because it runs bad at random times! I had a couple of friends coming over to test it with their equipment, and the truck was running OK, so that was a waste of time, but sometimes like yesterday, it was driving so bad after only 10 minutes that I thought I was not going to make it home.

Have you checked the fuel pressure?


great point, but yes, fuel pressure was normal. thanks for your comment

My Ah Ha moment was going to be the ignition module but that doesn’t explain the error codes for only Bank 2. Then I saw on RockAuto that this engine had the “spider” fuel injection system. This thing;

It is basically 2 fuel injectors for each cylinder bank sent through lines to each cylinder. The way it works is it fires all the injectors for one side then the other. Fuel then just “hangs around” the intake port until the valve opens and suck the fuel and air in. I think the Bank 2 side of this injection system is sticking open and dumping lots of fuel into Bank 2.

They were not the most reliable device back in the day. That’s why they went away. Also looks like there is a conversion to 6 individual injectors for a similar price to reman units for about the same price. I’d recommend that instead of a reman factory-style system. Notice the 6 injectors and wiring Pic below:


You may want to do a test before you change it out. Go drive the truck with whatever OBD tool you are using. Watch the short and long term fuel trim values for both banks so maybe you can see if the Bank 2 trims are going more and more negative as the engine bogs down. If Bank 1 trims don’t respond as much as Bank 2, that’s some confirmation that we are on the right track.

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OH GOD…NOO NOT THE SPIDER !!! I truly hate those damn things. I would go with what The Man of Mustang suggests here. The Spider can cause most of what you are complaining about and so much more ! Glad I never owned a vehicle with one, but I surely had to replace a lot of them to solve issues like this on other peoples vehicles. I truly despise that thing and the trouble it causes.

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Thank you so much for your help and I am extremely grateful for your aha moment. I am checking Rockauto to order the spider updated new version and it seems that is the only one they carry (the new updated version) … I am right?


No . . . you’re wrong

You can still get the old version . . . although I don’t know why anybody would want to do that

I appreciate your comment… I am in rockauto.com Could you kindly tell me which ones I could choose from?

Thank you!

Ps. The one I am looking at says “conversion kit to MFI” I do not know what MFI means…

Get this one


Do NOT get this one


I have experience with both

The first one works fine, and I believe it’s made in USA

The second one is garbage, in my opinion

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Perfect! Thank you very much I founded it! and I also found the HK10 bracket, but I cannot find the #2048 gasket that they mention as required and not included. Do you know what gasket are they talking about? I searched on Rockauto without luck and searched on the web. I did however found the Upper intake manifold, but none of the ones available was a #2048…

This part… available here… but a bit pricey!

Since it is a note from a Standard product, I found it using the search terms “Standard Products gasket 2048”

Or here on Rockauto for $25