Transmiton Oil Cooling



I have a 1994 Town & Country with an A604 transmission and i recently did my second rebuild. my First one went south pretty fast because Two Clutches went free from the over drive shaft assembly. Which made the car run on only 2 Clutches for overdrive. On my second rebuild i made sure they will not come out be hammering the tapes out more. I also modefied the 2-4 clutches so that it has 5 cluches and plates insted of 4. The clerance ended up being .95 mm which is perfect. I want this transmition to last me a long time So here is my question about the oil cooler.

The current set up has hot oil going to the engine water cooler radiator first then to the auxziliray oild cooler. Which is 11 in by 3 in

I am thinking of getting a big* oil cooler and bypass the engine water cooler. Which means only using the big* oil cooler. What Do you guys think of this? Good or bad?

*Big means the size of a standard paper (8 1/2in by 11 in).


You hammered what??? What are these “Tapes” you are talking about. Was it the snap ring on the 2-4 that broke?? On the 604 transmission, you ALWAYS and I mean ALWAYS replace the snap rings in the clutches during overhaul. Be careful because they are different sizes. As far as the cooler is concerned, I would get the larger cooler. When installing, route the lines like this. From trans output to radiator cooler input, then from radiator output to external cooler input, then from external cooler output to transmission input. This means that the fluid goes to the radiator cooler BEFORE going to the external cooler. Last but not least, when you increased the 2-4 clutch size, did you add just frictions or frictions AND steels??



After the pump there is this case where the overdrive and underdrive clutches are. It is called INPUT CLUTCHES ASSEMBLY. If you start take it apart the first set of clutches are two clutches and plates which is for reverse. After that there is a set of 4 clutches and plates that come out together if you pull up on the overdrive shaft assembly. They come out together because at the end of the shaft assembly there are three taps that hold the teeth of the last clutch. I Simply hammerd those taps out a little more. I did change one snap ring. It was the snap ring that is just before the LOW/REVERSE CLUTCHES. It is the second snap ring that holds the Low/reverse Reaction Plate.


So you recommend using the water radiator also. Or Should i just have a big oil cooling radiator just for the transmition


Well Gollee

Hummm …interesting consept on trans.cooling

I always did it the other way


Yes, dont bypass it. It helps warm the transmission in cooler climates because the computer will lock out overdrive and TCC lockup if the trans is too cool.



Hey thanks for the help.

I don’t know if you remember but i was the guy on the old form that had a 1994 Chrysler T&C with and A604 transmission. You told me to change the Torque converter. But on my first rebuilt i did not change it. on my second rebuilt i did. And there is a big difference in changing gears from R to D and N to D and N to R. The car used to jump between these gear changes. But after i got a new torque converter there is a very big difference. Hey thanks for that advice too.


Absolutely, glad everything worked out for you…