This thing might do the job . . .
https://www.grahamtool.com/smalltubebeadingtool.aspx
But I’ve never used this type of tool, so I can’t say for certain
It seems what you need might be known as a “pipe bead tubing tool” or tube beading tool or tubing beader
I just spent 4 hours on the side of the road because the damn line popping off. I’ve learned my lesson. I’m doing it right and flaring it.
And it’s 40 bucks in fluid every time it happens.
deleted :think
If you’re going that route, rather than “unioning” a new piece of tube with the same type of GM quick connect end at the radiator, maybe it would be better to change the radiator adapter to a flare connector, cut and flare the original tube end, and connect directly to the radiator adapter, like in the pic below.
Single flare would be enough for 100psi?
I would think so. Looking at flare fittings at McMaster, 37 degree JIC fittings for 3/8 steel tube are rated to 5000psi (@ 72F).
Before GM went with these quick connect fittings, they used standard 45 degree inverted flare fittings for the trans cooler lines. If concerned about possible inadequacy of a single flare, just do what GM used to do. You’ll need the appropriate adapter for the radiator.
Revised picture for inverted flare:
Well I’ve practiced and I think my double flare looks pretty okay. Does any one know what would be the appropriate hose to use? The auto store gave me 11/32 sae j2076. I put a double flare I made from a section of the old transmission line and it shredded the inside of the hose…
Are you still planning on using the quick connect with a new tube end connected to the old tube with hose? Are you using a flare in place of a bead to retain the hose on the tube? If so, it would probably work but may not be the best choice. As you found, the flare may be a bit too large in diameter. The J2076 hose is for power steering, so it should be fine. Inner hose diameter should match the outer tube diameter.
As suggested above, you could just replace the entire quick connect fitting at the radiator with a flare fitting, using the original tube (just cut the end off and flare). No hose or any other intermediate joints needed. Or is there not enough tube length beyond the bend to do this?
Not a mechanic but wondering if it is a worn or deformed clip as a cause.
Brake lines require a double flare. You only need a simple, single flare.
Too late I cut the line. I would like to do a bead but the machines to do them are ridiculously expensive.
Is there enough line that you can join the old and new using a flare union, and ditch the hose?
If you must use the hose, perhaps doing a bubble flare instead of a full inverted double flare would work better as a tube bead. There is a way to make bubble flares using double flare tools (search Youtube). You wouldn’t necessarily want to trust that method for brake lines, but for purposes here should be fine. The bubble flare is more rounded like a bead would be and may be more gentle on the hose.