Should I replace this transmission cooler line? I do have a p0742 code TCC solenoid stuck on problem, I’m trying to fix as well. But came across this and maybe if this line is bad it could of caused my issue as well somehow.
I would.
Do you realize how quickly the transmission can pump out transmission fluid if the hose fails and you driving at 70 MPH?
Tester
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replace the line as soon as possible
But it didn’t cause P0742
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If you don’t get the P0742 taken care of soon you may not be able to drive it long enough for the hoses to fail… lol
Best to take it to a well known transmission specialist and have them check it out, could just need a transmission fluid and filter change/flush, a bad TCC solenoid, wiring, TCM , low fluid level or converter… Either way if the TCC gets locked in direct-drive with the engine, well, lets just say driving it anywhere will get very interesting fast…
So both the hoses and taken care of the Code P0742 are very important…
Thank you, I have already done a drain and refill twice. With no change to vehicle. I just came a cross that cooler line. The other one looks fine. It stalls when I come to a stop, unless I put in neutral. Sometimes after putting back in drive when accelerating it’s jerks a bit. Then goes. Engine light went away and hasn’t come back on. But still having same driving issue. Is it possible that the seals on the pressure switch on Tcm body got damaged and that’s what may be the issue? Photo is a example of what I’m asking
It sounds like the torque converter clutch solenoid is preventing the clutch from disengaging when coming to a stop, causing the engine to stall.
I would try adding this product to the transmission fluid to see if it frees up the solenoid.
Tester
Thank you, I have used this. But only drove less than 100 miles still. I’m worried about driving to much to avoid any internal damage. If car is parked while engine is running does the fluid still circulate?
If the engine’s running, it spins the torque converter which spins the transmission pump.
So yes.
Tester
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I also had the the code p0700 with the P0742.
This is a well known problem with GM transmissions.
What year is it?
Trying to find out if you have a Gen1 or Gen2 6T75 transaxle…
Well known complaints are often the result of wear at the actuator feed limit (AFL) valve bore. The purpose of the AFL valve is to limit the pressure going to the solenoids (TCC solenoid included). The AFL valve spring is calibrated to prevent the solenoid feed pressure from exceeding a predetermined PSI, no matter what main line pressure is. This is necessary to prevent more fluid from being fed to the solenoids than they can effectively regulate and limit what max line pressure output is. If the pressure feeding the solenoids is too high or too low, their output will also be too high or too low. As a result, shift quality complaints and codes can occur along with low or high main line pressure. Over boost of pressure can damage solenoids…
You may need to do a valve body repair kit to correct the issues, but also replace the TCC solenoid which unfortunately I think is the whole TCM/solenoid assembly… They look to be $500 to $1000 depending on which one you have and some may require flashing…
I would take it to a trans shop to have it properly diagnosed…
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2013 gmc acadia denali awd
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I have a quote from Street smart. Looks like I can get it flashed to my vin as well. Would you recommend this company for its parts?
2013 looks like a split year design, 2007-2013 gen1 with pressure switches or 2013 and up without pressure switches… Need VIN to determine the correct solenoid assembly…
Never used street smart, so no opinion on them other than that is VERY inexpensive for a Valve Body and or TCM, flashing looks normal pricing…
Are these used parts or are they remanufactured parts?? And has the VB been upgraded with a VB repair kit??
They are remanufactured parts. Not sure what you mean about upgraded with repair kit. I looked up a rebuild kit for my valve body and TEHCM and the cost of kit would be $300+. But that kit would only repair pressure switch seals on TEHCM. Not solenoids. But has all parts to rebuild valve body. The street smart parts are supposed to be plug and play parts. But when I was chatting on phone with rep I asked about that. She said it would be programmed to my vin but there is still something a tech would need to finalize programing which I don’t understand if it’s loaded already and supposed to be plug and play.
Some of the VB valve bores wear and you have to ream the bore and install new valves
Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:
- Erratic or hunting TCC
- Broken parts due to over boost
- Codes P0741, P0742, P0751, P0752, P0776, P0777, P0796, P0797, P2714, P2715, P2723 and P2724
Includes:
- Drop-in USA-made hardened steel PR valve
- PR valve spring
- Oversized USA-made hardened steel AFL valve
- Drop-in USA-made hardened steel TCC regulator valve, scarf cut sealing ring, spring and O-ring
- Drop-in pressure relief bushing, spring, ball and retainer
When I’m changing the cooler lines. Would I use a kooler clean can on cooler that’s part of the radiator in me vehicle model or just use blow gun on compressor to clean out cooler part?
I always use WIT (wittrans.com) for almost all my transmission supplies, they have a location close to me also… I think this is what I always use to flush out the coolers…
I saw that kit as well. Was thinking of trying to do that. But could be beyond my capabilities lol. But a lot less expensive. I also seen the sonnax and transgo pressure switch seal kit for the techm which seems easier to do as well if I open this up and I see that damaged. I like the plug and play option lol. But it’s a lot more expensive. This is the kit I saw at auto zone and want just about $300. I picked up that can of kooler kleen today. Was just making sure.
