I have had my check engine light go on, and really don’t wanna take it somewhere to get checked, I wanna be able to read the codes myself. Just looking for advice on what readers would be recommended for my car or if there is a workaround to read the codes without buying a reader. I’ll post my code after I get to that point, but first want to find a proper solution for getting the code.
I have one of ScanTool’s netbook to USB cable readers. Takes data, stores and exports data for later analysis. Well spent money. I paid $49, they are down to $29 for the PC/cabled offering…
They have the same tools for smartphones using a Bluetooth enabled reader that plugs into the OBD2 port.
If you have a fair understanding of the workings of modern computer controlled emission systems, it might be a good idea to have a code reader.
If you can follow the trouble shooting tree for P0303 (misfire of #3 cylinder) or the dreaded P0420 (reduced catalytic converter efficiency), then you would be a step ahead even if you did now want to do the repair labor yourself. If you are going to be taking the vehicle to a mechanic for repair, he/she will be reading the codes again as the start of diagnosis. You would be wasting your money if you told the mechanic (as above) to replace the spark plug in #3 or to replace the catalytic converter if that did not clear the code.
A simple reader like this one is all you need to read codes, and for most people, it is all they need. A similar model will cost about twice as much at a local b&m autoparts store.
If you go with a bluetooth plug in, check to see if it comes with the app. On some, the app is separate.
I use an ELM -327 OBD-II reader with Bluetooth and the full version if Torque on my Galaxy S5. Used to use the Galaxy S2. Torque reads the codes and can give live sensor readings. The ELM-327 adapter can be found at Amszon or eBay for less than $20 and the Torque app is about $5.99.
In my ownership of cars with OBD-II (Subaru,Honda, Acura) and I have only had 2 steady check engine lights that went off after I made an appointment to get checked out. Is it really worth getting one especially with a Honda? The flashing one I had along with rough running turned out to be something major but a code reader would only tell me misfire which really was burned valve.
Also bad idea to walk in and give a diagnosis to a mechanic and say I read the code etc. It will throw them off and potentially get the wrong diagnosis or none. I do think there is value in knowing what a code is, researching and staying fully mum until diagnosis is done.
My question would be, can you CLEAR the codes with those smart phone OBDII readers? Getting that annoying check engine light out is most important to me because 95% of the time the code is something small that didnt really effect the way the car operates in general, like an oxygen sensor thats on the fritz.
Harbor freight has one for ~$120 that reads ABS codes.
If you have a smart phone or tablet, you can get one of the bluetooth dongles (ELM or something like that) for ~$20 and the torque app for free or Torque pro for $5. Neither as far as I know read ABS codes which I need now or at least last week.
in CA & HI the part stores would NOT read the codes for free, but I believe in most other states they will, so it depends on where you live.