To change atf or not to

Maintenance/Repairs
21

The metal was stuck to the magnets only, it was like fine powder, when I touched it it felt like mush when it was stuck to the magnets (the magnets looked like they had moss or hair growing on them about 1/16 deep if that makes sense). Aluminum isnt magnetic, and it wasn’t brass color, so fine steel (the consistency of baby powder) if that makes sense.

I have driven 250miles so far.
Shud have 500the by friday(long commute)

shud I just drain it again and add 4-5 quarts?
Shud I add more lube guard?

or drop pan again and check filter(old filter had no metal in it)?

Or do a flush of all 10 qts?

Thanks

22

The powder on the magnet you describe is typical. I would make the next move based on what the fluid looks like. If it’s still red or pinkish colored, you should be good to go. If it turns brown again, either have it flushed or drain and refill it again. If you have a drain plug, your next move should be a no-brainer. For the second time around, drain and refill is nearly as effective as a flush and is much cheaper.

23

I agree with Mark9207. Now that you have dropped the pan, and cleaned it up and good filter, just drain and refill several times. That costs very little IF IT HAS A DRAIN PLUG.

My 2002 Sienna has 176,000 miles,and that drain and refill is all I have ever done. I read that on Click and Clack.

If it were me, I would do it again when I got around to it, like the next weekend, or even at night if you can, not wait any great length of time at all, until you are satisfied the ATF is good enough for you.

The reason is every time you drain and refill, you dilute the cruddy stuff some more. If you put in say (an example only) 40% new the first time, – because only 40% drains out each time – then the next time you drain 40%, that means 60% is still there, but that 60% is only 40% new stuff, which means when you add back the 40% new stuff, it will have 24% new stuff left in there from before, and you add 40%, which means you will now be up to 64%, not 80% new stuff.

The next time, you will have 60% left, at 64% new content, which means after fill, 38.4% new stuff still in transmission, plus 40% new stuff you add, which will bring you up to 78.4% new stuff. And, so on, just do the math if you wish.

If more than 40% drains, the numbers obviously are different.

If you are not confused, I have not explained it properly, heh, heh.

But, my point is each time you do a drain and refill, the percentage which is new oil goes up a bit more.

And, while I don’t know, I think it need not get real high percentage new, to keep the transmission running well. Still ATF is very cheap compared to a new tranny, especially if you can drain and refill yourself.

24

I changed the ATF in my 04 Alero in 06 to Mobil 1 ATF. The car shifted well before I had that done and remarkably BETTER afterwards. It shifted much more smoothly and the trans got quieter immediately. The mechanic told me there is no hard recommended change time for the transmission fluid and he wouldn’t even tell someone to change it at all, but, if I had the car in five years I might want to think about it if I had no better way to spend $150.00 (thirteen quarts at $5.65 each + tax & labor). Well, things are still well with the transmission as well as the rest of the car so I am not considering spending $150. on the fluid change just yet.

25

The retired mechanics here often complain the car manufacturers seldom spell out the need to change that AFT, resulting in too many bad trannies.