The “V” is the speed rating. The “98” vs “94” are slight differences in load rating. They appeared to have slightly “upped” the load rating from 690 to 750 Kg with the new model. I did, however, misspeak on that detail, and for that I sincerely apologize.
In the interest of full disclosure, I’ve attached a site on the sidewall coding protocols. I hope it helps.
OK, I stand corrected. I still wouldn’t like it.
I wouldn’t do it either, Bing, but the bottom line–IMHO–is that if somebody is trying to save money, it is…probably…okay to do it on a vehicle that is not AWD.
Wow. You have the same make and model of tire. Identical performance type, identical max inflation, identical speed ratings, identical dimensions, slightly different (and better) load rating, different tread design. And yet, people seroiusly propose “4 new?”//////It’s not like we’re talking mixing in a M+S with summer performace, or anything. Not everyone has six bills to throw down every time life happens! As a project, go look at ten random cars in the parking lot, next time you shop. I’ll bet that what OP proposes is better than what the majority of the cars you spy are doing. Heck, if OP buys the tire, and simply checks his tire pressure every fill-up, he’ll be rolling safer than 80% of the cars on the road.////OP, buy the one tire. Take the $400-ish and do something nice for a loved one. Or pay off a loan. Or start a “rainy day” fund.
Just so everyone understands, the difference in the Load Index is because one tire is a Standard Load (SL), and one is an Extra Load (XL), but they have the same load carrying capacity at the same inflation pressure. It’s just that the XL can be inflated to a higher pressure.
(And I’m sure someone will point to the max pressure with a question about why they are the same - and the answer is kinda complicated.) - and on second reading, nope, they are different. and the XL tire is lower - and the answer to that is even more complicated.
I think many of us are overthinking the question. As meanjoe said, the OP is safer than 80% of the cars on the road. I honestly don’t think there’s a real problem here at all.
Disagree with everyone here it does not matter. It depends on the specific Maxima. If it has a limited slip differential (LSD) and some Maxima’s may due to performance nature it will burn up the differential running mismatched tires.
I ran a spare tire a bit low on my WRX with LSD and car was twitchy. I happened to touch the rear diff and it was burning hot to the touch.
Good point if it has a (front) LSD. They’re all FWD now, have been for years, and LSD on FWD is very rare. I’d be very surprised if it has LSD.
All Subarus are very sensitive to tire size, you’re correct.
“I happened to touch the rear diff and it was burning hot to the touch.”
This takes me back to my '68 Valiant. After a drive on a warm day I also happened to touch the (non-limited slip) differential and it was hot (not measured, but far too hot to hold my hand on). I changed the gear oil but that made no difference. Never had any trouble with the diff and concluded that is normal operating temperature.
That Valiant got the first SEARS radials sold (made by Michelin) that lasted 60K…a revelation at the time.
Andrew, your point is a good one, but the OP is running them in the rear on a FWD car. The left side has no idea how fast the right side is spinning.
Subies are well known to suffer adverse effects from variations in tire size.
The replacement tire is IDENTICAL in circumference to the other 3,These is no “mis-match”
…and OP says less that 5,000 miles on the “old” tires.
She could get the “new” tire shaved, but I don’t see the need.
I wholeheartedly agree. I really don’t think a problem exists, and I commend the car’s owner for getting a match for the existing tires (same make & model) even though it turned out that the manufacturer had made a change to the model. The owner used the proper due diligence and did the right thing.