If the guide is installed backwards, the edge of the guide slowly shaves away the timing belt at its edge.
This causes the timing belt to keep getting narrower and narrower. The timing belt can now start moving back and forth across the sprockets as everything is spinning because it’s narrower.
This will continue until the timing belt gets so narrow it shreds.
So you end up with a shredded timing belt and rubber dust.
Tester
sad to say, but at this point, the folks at Honda and the dealership don’t really give a rats patoot what is wrong with your original engine. You have purchased a new one, and they likely need to turn the old one in for a core. They aren’t going to fix the old one there, and you likely aren’t all that interested in paying them to work on the old one- which digging into it takes time that a tech could be making money.
I do that on my Corolla as part of a timing belt replacement. I think I did it on my prior VW Rabbit too, but so long ago, can’t recall with any certainty. When the timing covers are removed, with the engine running, I can check the belt is following the correct path, not interfering w/anything, idler pulleys idling ok, the tensioner is tensioning ok, and the camshaft timing is correct. I make sure the camshaft sprocket aligns with the timing marks the same as it did with the old belt, tested at several different rpms.
There’s just so much that might go bad that can be repaired much quicker if found before buttoning up everything @George_San_Jose1 . Long ago a cam seal leak required me to go back and start over and from then on I fired them up before covering up the work. And an engine can be started and run a minute or so without coolant.
@ok4450 did she botch her manual Subaru transmission because she did not have the right spacing between the belt and the timing belt plate (different than the Honda timing belt plate, it’s one that is a half circle that goes around belt at a certain point, I forget where) I was just reading all this information from Gates because they now provide a specific spacer for that specific type of car because there was such an issue with that. So interesting!! I sort of want to become a certified mechanic now if I can find night classes in this tiny state
Hi everyone! Ok I now have two sort of new questions related to this:
Well , first of all it is ( brakes ) . Have you tried finding an empty parking lot and making several hard stops from 30 or 40 MPH to set the pads .
As for the engine sound the word paranoia comes to mind.
@VOLVO_V70 haha ya! I thought paranoia might be the prognosis! But I did want to check in case it was actually some huuuuuge issue I didn’t know existed.
I have tried doing hard breaking maybe 5 times but I have no done it over and over! I will try that! Any idea how fast I should be going when I apply the break?
Frank , I put 30 to 40 MPH in my post . And please learn how to spell brake .
You know I have learned a lot of new stuff over the last week, like how combustion engines work, what pistons, valves spark plugs do, what compression is, how to test for it, how to assemble a timing belt and what things could break it and how. In all of my messages I have spelled things wrong and I am sorry, I will try to do better. I am trying to absorb a lot of new information and then put it together from what I have learned and what you guys say and I am just a dumb dog walker who generally avoids interacting with people if possible so it’s been a challenge. I now know that brakes in a car are not the same as to break something. Got it. Thank you.
In further news, I do not think I am being paranoid about the new engine anymore. Is it reving higher and I am burning more gas then usual. Is it also vibrating more. Why would this be happening? Need something to tell the shop when I go in.
Most of us aren’t bothered by misspellings. I wouldn’t worry about it.
I’m curious about the revving higher part, though. Do you mean it’s going higher before it shifts, or it has a higher pitched sound at a given RPM, or what?
Also, can you define “more gas than usual” so we have a basis for evaluation?
The vibrating more could be because they put new engine mounts in, and the old ones were… Well… Old, and not as stiff, or it could be indicative of other issues such as a misfiring cylinder. We’d need to know more.
Thanks! I need to get more data for you guys on the gas. It seems like it is going down fast but I will fill up on my way home and will be able to tell you exactly how many miles I went on how much gas tomorrow. The reving seems to me to be both issues both it is reving higher and the tone of the rev, and the engine in general, is higher pitched. It seems to be shooting up to 4000 rpm when I go up hills and hanging out between 2 and closer to 3. Would a frayed timing belt cause an engine to not shift into the higher gear it needed? Maybe as I am comparing it to my old engine, the problem is with that and not the new one. But I will have to let you guys know the mileage I get tomorrow so really be able to say anything definit about that.
Engine pitch. Is it the engine itself or an accessory like an alternator that sounds different? Does it sound different when running at the same RPM - or for a given speed is it running at a higher RPM? If the latter, your transmission may be shifting at different speeds than before, or not going into the highest gear, etc. With an engine exchange it’s conceivable that transmission adjustments could get disturbed or not correctly reconnected (I did this once). The shop that replaced the engine can check this out.
Brakes. The short answer is to take it back to the shop who did the work, demonstrate the problem and ask them to fix it (one hopes it isn’t the shop who changed the timing belt - if so you may want to go elsewhere).
Disc brake pads are squeal prone and there are a variety of approaches that can be taken to reduce or eliminate this. Have them confirm that any anti-squeal shims and guides that should be there are in place and properly coated with brake grease (if that is called for). One also wants to be sure the caliper guide pins were inspected (for wear and corrosion), cleaned, and re-greased - some shops overlook this. (I recently helped a friend change pads, and corroded guide pins, on an Acura MDX using new (Bosch brand) pads that came with new positioning springs and coated shims, yours may be similar.
As for the “bump” when braking, have whoever is checking the brakes confirm that brake, suspension, and wheel bolts are tight. Worn or loose suspension components, etc., could be responsible as well. For what it’s worth, with a few exceptions I usually use the car manufacturer’s brake components, and otherwise use high quality, standard parts that I know from experience to be good - fewer surprises that way. It’s also wise to work only with known good independent shops (not franchises) or with a dealership whose service department has a good reputation (some do!) - you may pay a bit more, but it’s nice to only pay once, and fewer hassles… Car Talk’s “Mechanics Files” has been a good resource for me. Best wishes.
While you’re at it, and if you will be keeping the car, be sure to keep up with the fluids. Go by the book or consult a good mechanic, but all need changing occasionally even if the manufacturer didn’t specify it. Down the road this will save you much woe from wear and corrosion.
@TwinTurbo sorry something happened when I edited this post last time. I can’t make new posts for another hour because I am a new user
Would there be damage on the parts this part interacts with as well? Does it attach to the crankshaft pullie?
Do you guys want more photos or did we just crack the case!!!?! I am on the edge of my seat here!!
Perhaps if it was a maintenance item they may have never replaced it in the beginning. It could be due to tech over tightening belt or not tight enough. If car kicks back when starting this could weaken cogs on belt, oil or a issue with improper install. Most belts come with at least a one year warranty and sometimes even lifetime. If your mechanic shop installed a belt and won’t back it it up with a year warranty find a better shop. Also you can call the state. They have a division that you can file a report for investigation into this shop for possible shoddy work. Not saying the shop is at fault. But at least they should replace it one more time. If it happens again after this then possibly another issue. I have done numerous t belts. I know that the crank washer can get turned the wrong side and this can cause premature failure… Find a different shop to do repair and see if they can document why belt failed. Then you have a legal recourse to at least if it was a fault of prior repair to get your money back.
Frankie802:
This picture is with the curve/flare toware the camera.
The outer edge of the plate is worn clean, which strongly suggests it was rubbing up against the belt.
@joemario ya it does!! Ya! I can not this. This is nuts! I need someone to write all this up if anyone here is willing or knows someone in New England or honestly I think anywhere would be fine because I just need a write up. I live in a small state and everyone I have talked to doesn’t want to start stuff with another shop. Researched professional expert witnesses but too expensive. Recommendations appechiated!
I can not comment with a new post for 18 hrs but really appechiate any and all insight on this new development!
@ok4450 yes that’s the same service writer.
This is the side that should have been toward the belt. It was before the belt was changed due to the clean/shiny area in the middle and which goes slighly beyond the small holes.
However, look at the holes and how the belt dust came through the holes and was thrown out to the perimeter from the centrifugal force. Some of that newly blacked area (from the dust coming through the holes) was previously clean.
To me, these two pics are the smoking gun.
