Just not seeing the issue i guess. Never seen the sway bar hole with threads in it. Just knock it out of there. Get an angle grinder wit a cut off wheel and that will make quick work getting the bolt head off. I have had to cut the links before but just cutting the bolt loose makes it just fall off. Now because of clearance I had to cut the bolt before mounting the strut, but looks like this is the bottom of the sway bar.
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Exactly right everybody. I got a better grinder, was able to get back behind cutoff the nut flush and there she was. That outside ring was rusted on to the bolt and I cut it wrong like the red line shows. Thanks everybody, you all saved me from a ton of headache.
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You’ll need to saw it off on the other side flush.
They are a pain in the butt to get off.
What are you talking about?
He got the part off, problem has been solved.
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I don’t understand you
You admit you’re not a mechanic and are, in fact, in another field
You talk as if YOU know how best to do OUR jobs
Your ideas are consistently proven to be incorrect
Your knowledge is clearly lacking
Yet you keep coming back and you still act like a know-it-all
What is it that you’re after?
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Hey man if I’m incorrect then so be it. Its not THAT big of a deal. We’re talking about a bolt on a sway bar link here. Don’t be that type of person lol.
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Good for you for sticking w/it. It seems like if you had the proper tool you’d be able to push the stuck stud out of that hole. Or is that impossible for some reason, not enough access for any type of tool, etc. If you had the part on the work bench you’d be able to press the stud out using a shop press method, right? Or was there something holding the stud in place you simply had to grind away first?
I had a sort of similar problem recently, one bolt holding my truck’s seat to the floor was rusted solid to the seat’s mounting support. It was a flanged bolt, wouldn’t have been a problem if they’d used a separate washer, but the washer was part of the bolt, and that part is what rusted to the support. I was able to remove the seat, but had to drill the bolt out to free it from the mounting support. .
The stud has a head on it to keep it from falling through the hole, this is shown in the pictures. The opposite side has a nut holding the stud tight.
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I’m thinking the tool would push the stud in the direction of the head, so the head wouldn’t prevent it from being pushed out. The photo you posted above shows the nut was presumably already cut from the stud, so the nut wouldn’t prevent the remaining part of the stud from being pushed out. Just curious is all, what am I not understanding?
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It’s difficult to describe this sort of thing using words, situation would likely be obvious if you were holding the part in your hand. Reminds me of the experience that occurred when I had to make a 2 sided copy the other day. I set the machine up for 2-sided copies, then a pop up overlay appears on the main screen with a “start” button. That’s in addition to the “start” button on the main screen. So which “start” button do I push? … lol …
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Look who’s talking lol
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You are correct, there was part of the nut that wasn’t reachable with the grinder I had. Once I got that cut off, the bolt came right out.
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Ok, I understand now. In your initial attempt, you weren’t able to slice off the entire nut, so part of the nut was still threaded onto the stud, preventing the stud from being pushed out of the hole. Thanks much for your excellent clarification.
BTW, there’s an inexpensive tool that is helpful sometimes in that situation, called a “nut-splitter”.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/nut-splitting-tool
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@Nevada_545 's photo above was part of the confusion, b/c it shows another nut, bright and shiny, upper right, removed. I’m presuming that nut is used to prevent the first nut from jostling loose, “jam-nut”.
I think my confusion was I thought it was a bolt and not a nut. Some use the terms interchangeably. It seems clear now that bottom piece was a nut which tightened against the rest of the fitting with the control arm in between. The ones I have done were just a long bolt with a spacer and rubber bushings, except for the Pontiac that had to be cut off. Guess it had some flat but no way to get a wrench in there and even so would have slipped. So I’m educated now.
The picture is the stud after the joint was cut off. The nut is on the opposite side out of view.