I was driving along, and my loyal Loyale quit firing. I can crank the ignition, but the plugs are not receiving any spark. There is fuel hitting the chambers. . . Since there wasn’t any spark at the plugs, I tried the distributor and rotor area. The D&R are both very new, and looking good. There isn’t any power reaching the distributor cap/rotor. . . So I turned to the coil. I had a friend test with a multimeter, and we determined that the coil was receiving electricity, but was not sending any. So at this point, I’m under the impression that the coil is bad. I ordered a new coil from the local parts store, and dropped it in. No change in the above scenarios. The new coil has “USE WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION” printed on it. I don’t know a lot about vehicles, but I thought that the Distributor/Rotor system was a Mechanical Ignition system. Was I given the incorrect part? Is the new one defective? Is there somewhere else that I need to be focusing attention? Oh, we also checked the fuses. They’re good as well. Also, the Timing belt is not broken. Any piece of information would be great! This site is normally really helpful and full of very knowledgeable members!
a year and model is helpful , try checking crank and cam sensors
My guess was timing belt. However I believe there is not one but actually two timing belts on this Subaru motor.
I have diagnosed a no spark condition on an early 90s Subaru and found it to be caused by a jumped timing belt on the left camshaft. It seems that the ECU won’t trigger unless the camshaft TDC signals is in line with the crankshaft TDC signal. So I will fall in line with markmaken and andrew_j in recommending a good starting place for diagnosis. The rotor should be very near the #1 position or at 180* from it when the crank timing mark is at 0* TDC,