@“Rod Knox” writes
I prefer to remove carburetor jets and then soak all the parts in cleaner but spraying through the jet and confirming that the internal passages to the venturi are open would usually be OK. That 2100 carburetor is 40 years old and it might be worthwhile to leave no stones unturned though
So far I’ve rebuilt this carb twice, and this is just in the past week … lol … It seems I may not know everything there is to know about this process. The first time the engine started and ran great for about 20 minutes, like new, then for no apparent reason the engine stalled and wouldn’t start at all unless I poured gasoline down the throat of the carb. So I took it all apart, re-sprayed the passages with carb cleaner, and again it started up and ran like new. This time for about 2 hours. I thought I had it licked finally so I parked the truck for the evening. The next morning it was hesitant to start. When it eventually started, it idled and performed very poorly. I could get it to go from very poor to just poor performance by turning everything in the “rich” direction. Doing this it was drivable, but barely.
So now I’m in the middle of the third rebuild in a week. This time I followed Rod Knox’s learned advice above and am using the “take it completely apart down to the practically the last screw and soak everything in Berryman’s carb cleaner for 20 minutes in a bucket” method. I’m done with the cleaning process but haven’t put it all back together yet.
One question I’m not sure about is the proper treatment for the throttle plate shaft. Since I soaked everything that shaft is now bone dry. I’m concerned I might be creating a wear problem between the throttle plate shaft and where it turns in the carb body every time I step on the gas. Should I lubricate that area with a drop of oil? Or is it designed to run dry, with no lube?