Drained tranny and replaced new filter. It was my daughters car and I had her helping me. she got ahead of me and before I could say anything she stripped one of the 3 bolts holding the filter. 2 of the bolts are short and across from each other and they are good. It is the long bolt that stripped. I can see the aluminum about 1/4" from the end. It must not be a bottomed hole? The aluminum fills the thread about 1/4" from the end of the bolt and extend about 1/4"
I’m thinking of not using the bolt? The filter “clicks” in place with the O-ring and is very secure with the 2 remaining bolts. The only question I have is does the long bolt plug a hole that needs to be plugged?
There’s no way to be sure but silicone sealant will keep it from falling out. You don’t have to fix it if nobody knows it’s broken.
I would not put silicone sealant sealant into an automatic transmission. I would try wire brushing the aluminum off the bolt threads and putting a piece of steel wire up into the hole to see if it gives enough bite to hold the filter.
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Another vote for not putting silicone, nor any other type of sealant inside an automatic transmission (except of course for sealing a pan which does not use an actual molded gasket). I am sure that Nissan would have eliminated that bolt if it truly wasn’t necessary, because they could have saved $1 or whatever per vehicle. I would try to find a replacement bolt, which is of the same type and threading, but slightly longer, and tighten it in gently by hand, being careful not to strip it out.
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the piece of steel wire would go up in WITH the bolt? Would copper wire work?
If the aluminum had gone completely to the end of the bolt I would have felt fine doing this. But it appears that the hole is through a “plate” because the aluminum doesn’t go to the tip… So, I am afraid of a longer bolt interfering with a moving part??
What year is the Altima and what engine??
Ask your own mechanic how much they’d charge to fix this properly. I expect the fee is less than you think. Certainly less than replacing the transmission if your home-brew method fails. Another option if you prefer the diy’er method is to ask your mechanic to inspect the situation then provide advice on how to fix it properly; then you can follow their advice.
Is this video accurate for your car? Looks like it should be. The filter in question at the 20:30 time.
It doesn’t appear the bolt has any sealant whatsoever on it so the chances it actually seals anything is slim. It also appears threaded the entire length but only engages toward the end based on the limited loosening before it falls out.
The filter housing does appear to be quite tightly held in place by the “grommet” around the neck.
I would mark a wire at the length of the bolt so you know how far it can reach up into the threaded hole. A slight bend, piece of tape, marker line etc. Then insert the wire into the bolt hole and see if it goes in further than the mark. If it hits a stop close to the length you know it’s a blind hole.
I might be tempted to find something very close to the original bolt but just a hair larger. Goober up a tap of the right size with vaseline and run it in/back out. The vaseline will capture any chips or shavings. Then carefully thread in the new bolt and only tighten a smidge so it doesn’t want to back out. Your tolerance for risk may be different…
Which bolt is messed up, 1,2 or the one not pointed at??
Number 1
Number 2
The wire would go in the hole first, you might have to grind a little taper at the very tip of the bolt to get it started. I don’t know if copper would work. Just telling you what I would try if I was faced with your situation.
If the one NOT pointed at bolt, then that one is easy, just replace the filter mounting bracket (only 2 bolts)
If the number 2 hole, it is a boss hanging off the end of the valve body that is not a blind hole with some clearance… Worst case you could pull the valve body and Heli coil the threads, or have it done… Or replace the valve body, very common valve body from what I can tell…
The number 1 hole is a little more complicated as I think that is the long bolt and it is part of the transmission case itself… Without being able to tell if it is a blind hole or not I am not sure if any moving parts are below it, but it is close to or right above (in the picture)the primary pulley assembly…
You don’t want to do anything that could catch the valve body and tweak it as the hole is close to an oil passage that could potentially cause fluid pressure loss…
I like yor idea… what size wire though?
Can’t tell from here. Depends on the hole., may need a couple of pieces, it is trial and error.
You could also JB Weld a stud or threaded rod up in the hole and use a nut and lock washer or Locktite.
My truck’s carburetor is made of some sort of special metal, a tin alloy I suspect. Has a tendency toward brittleness. One of the bolt holes for holding the accelerator pump to the carb-body developed this same problem, enlarged, threads not engaging properly. I experimented with a few diameters (gauges) of copper wire, finally found one that allowed the bolt to thread in, and held the bolt in securely. I bent the wire into a u-shape, each leg on different sides of the bolt. This is sort of undesirable b/c it has to be redone each time the bolt is removed. But at least for my problem where there’s not a lot of force involved, it definitely does the job.
