I have a 2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. It ran and drove great until a couple months ago then the signal wire on the starter shorted out, when the signal wire shorted out it burnt up the starter and since then it’s just been sitting.I have a new starter on it and I’ve wired everything directly up to the battery , so it doesn’t turn over with the key, the problem is that the new starter turned the motor over one time and now all it does is spin and won’t engage. I took the starter off and took it to AutoZone to have it tested. It tested fine so I put it back on the car and it still won’t engage. I’m not sure if this could be a problem from that signal wire being shorted out even though I’ve pulled The starter fuse and relay, When the signal wire shorted out, it melted the negative battery terminal so I’m thinking it could possibly be a bad ground on the other end of that cable. I would appreciate the help figuring out how to fix this
You may need shims on the starter motor for it to engage correctly. I thought I might but pulled the starter, centered it as best I could and then it was fine. I pulled it out as I was going to return it, and thought I should get a video of what was happening! https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter-shim-universal-type/p/dorman-starter-shim-assortment/426021_0_0?spps.s=1792&cmpid=LIA%3AUS%3AEN%3AAD%3ANL%3A1000000%3AGEN%3A22350391884&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22356757832&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVtK56_5lsPy0QoMdE50GP8aq&new_store_set=true
Other than not knowing how this thing is wired up now, I am gonna say you bought the starter from Auto Zone (AZ) since you had it tested their… If so, go to O’Reilly or Advance or Napa and buy a quality starter (not the cheapest one they sell), and see if it works… AZ sells junk and I have seen nothing but problems out of the stuff they sell…
All you need is the B+ cable bolted up to the correct spot on the starter and to jump the starter solenoid (starter signal from key wire) at the starter (short heavy gauge wire will work) for the starter to spin the engine over… Again, not sure how you have this wired up or even what you are calling the signal wire, the signal wire is the small gauge wire that is ONLY putting power to the starter when the key is in the start position, the B+ is the very large gauge wire coming from the battery and is HOT at ALL times…
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BTW in the picture of the negative terminal, it does not look like it melted, that looks like it was breaking and the last little bit as it was breaking arced and caused the little melty thingy…
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Any pictures of what it looks like now??
My advice, get rid of those quick disconnects. Replace the terminals and clean up the wire ends. Twist the braid so it doesn’t flatten out like that.
How fast is the starter spinning? Normal or slower than normal? If the battery is not fully charged or has degraded capacity, it may not spin the starter motor fast enough to cause the gear to extend and engage the flexplate.
I agree with potential for failure out of the box if it was a cheap rebuild or “white box” unit. I bought an inexpensive starter off an online retailer once that immediately stuck on and almost melted down/started a fire. Brans new out of the box, first start attempt.
I did figure out the starting issue after trying to shim it I realized the solenoid wasn’t engaging at all, loos connection on the signal terminal, the car still won’t start though, it says starting disabled service throttle, and engine power reduced, I tried spraying gas directly into the throttle body but still nothing, it doesn’t seem like the car is getting spark
And right now it is a positive cable on the starter wire , and a postive wire on the solenoid signal terminal I touch to the battery, to get it to turn over
with the rock guard removed and the BAT cable disconnected from the starter and pulled to clearance from ground a jumper wire from the battery cable to the trigger wire on the solenoid will pull the bendix into contact with the flywheel. When properly shimmed the bendix will engage. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. The starter won’t spin but the bendix will strike the starter ring strong enough to through sparks or chips. Watching closely you should be able to determine why the starter fails to engage.
With a couple of open ended shims that are bent to slip into the space when the mounting bolts are loosened about 1 turn Installing shims on the block side will open the gap while installing shims on the outward bolt will close the gap when the bolts are snugged up.
Thank you but the starter issues are fixed, I just can’t get the car to run due to the starting disabled service throttle, message, it doesn’t seem like it’s getting spark, I sprayed gas into throttle body and it didn’t even sputter
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There is a throttle system malfunction, the starter will be disabled until that is resolved.
Review the system faults, the throttle body may only need the calibration procedure performed.
Alright, I just got my code reader back so I will clear it tommorow and recalibrate, and I will give a update if I have any luck, thank you
The car started today, I wired a toggle switch to the starter inside of the car, and turned the key at the same time, it started but won’t run, I think the throttle body does need to be calibrated because the throttlebody won’t return to no throttle, but the car did run for about 3 seconds before it died
Does anyone know how to recalibrate the throttle body on this car? I have been searching how, and can’t find a thing, the throttle is stuck part of the way open but still moves with the pedal, and my theory is that it’s flooding the car when I try to start it because it won’t close all the way