I’m looking into spot welders for making battery packs. Spot welding copper seems to be a bit difficult, and requires a lot of power. So I’m looking into different spot welders that can spot welder copper strips at least 0.1 mm thick. I’ve seen some that are like 22.8 kW range that can weld such copper. These welders have to probes, and the two probes are placed on the same side of the metal, as opposed to the ones were you place the two probes on opposite sides. There’s many more powerful ones as well.
I currently have a “cheap” spot welder that is rated for 0.2 mm thick nickel, but can really only reliably do 0.1 mm nickel. I need one that can do copper because it can carry much more current and wouldn’t require me stacking layers upon layers of nickel, if I could just spot weld copper instead.
My question is for automotive application, what kind of spot welders and how much energy is required? I’m looking for battery building applications at the moment, but am wondering for dual purposes, what ratings are good for automotive use?
The many “powerful” ones that can spot weld copper appear to be only made in China and made by “Glitter”. So id be worried about it being cheaply made and a hassle to warranty. Any “powerful” ones that can weld copper that have a good warranty someone can point me too?
A 130 amp 120v MIG welder will do for auto body and lighter structural welding up to about 0.125 in. For frame work, you’ll need 225 amp, 220v MIG or stick welder. My Hobart MIG welder has done most anything I have needed… including rollcages.
But these are not spot welders. You can buy spot welding hand sets for the bigger AC/DC welders.
Are you trying to replicate the way multi-battery-in-series packs are made? i.e. Like for power tools, with the + surface of one battery welded to a copper strip, and the other end of the strip welded to the - surface of the next battery? If so , seems dangerous, possible battery explosions and the like. . diy’er, no experience in this area, but my opinion is to abandon this idea…
Apparently a simple web search showed me that copper needs a short, high intensity pulse of energy usually supplied by super capaciters. The welding tips for steel are copper but that doesn’t work for welding copper. Amazon has welders for copper. Look there.
Yes exactly. I don’t really know we’re in automotive use a spot welder would have an application.
Yes this for battery pack making.
Looking online spot welders have automotive application. But I’m not sure were or what kind.
I see how tig, mig, stick, acetylene torch, have an application. But not so much spot welders.
@Tester which of those spot welders could be used in automotive and what application?
I have one of those cheap ones, I think the second one on that list. Not strong enough for copper. And at 0.2 mm nickel maximum and this is really the maximum here and not reliable, not sure what application this would be for automotive use?
Ive spot welded some cells together. Safe as long as careful. But I suppose that goes with welding in general.
Yea these copper spot welders are like $500 not cheap and appear to be the most “powerful” kind. All made in China. I’ve seen pictures of the internals of the U.S. Solid and they have glitter super capacitors in them, looking at their site, I think they are all the same manufacturer.
What is automotive use for these types of “powerful” spot welders, besides making power tool battery packs for power tools to run power tools?
I have no problem trying new things. But I always take into account the risk factor and my limitations. I would never attempt something like this unless I had a ton of welding experience - which I don’t (not even close). Some things are just left to the professionals.
There isn’t one. This is like trying to use a pasta maker to make weather seals. A short high impulse spot welder for copper welding will blow a hole in steel panels.
And a MIG or TIG welder can take the place of a spot welder. Drill 1/4 inch hole in the replacement part and plug weld the hole. It acts just like a spot weld although it looks a little different. My MIG welder cost $350. The gas bottle for CO2 and Argon cost another $150 15 years ago.
Pretty sure I have the same welder. I have everything needed to do either steel or aluminum. It’s been more than adequate for my needs over the years. Repaired numerous car/truck frames, boat trailers, various tubing projects and so on. I have a stick welder that hasn’t seen the light of day in a couple decades. Plus I have oxy/acetylene gas welding option. But that Lincoln set up is front and center and gets pulled out for almost everything- very happy with it.
One common use is for the little metal ridge than runs from the rear wheel to the front wheel, under the rocker panels, on many modern uni-body cars. Take a look, you’ll likely be able to see the spot welds. Kucklehead diyer, know next to nothing about spot welding. But I have done it, was the only thing I was semi-good at in jr high metal shop.
