Sparks, Carbon......100k!

Its a 2nd Gen Mazda 5 with 113k.
It uses the most expensive NGK sparks, Iridium Laser. I changed them. I use Mobil1 and also posted a Oil analysis an year ago.

#2 and #3 sparks have some carbon. Those two were easy to remove too. Parts store told me Platinum worn out resulting in an increased gap (400 to 600). He thinks that I should use 5w-20 instead of 0w-20 and also carbon clean the engine. Oil is also become dark after 5k and 1yr - going to change it. Thoughts advice?

Update:
Sparks were changed then and there. $18 a piece.

Use the oil that Mazda recommends unless the oil analysis shows problems. Have you considered checking the plugs at 50,000 miles and gapping them accordingly?

Bought it at 88k - asked the dealer if they can ask the original owner whether they did it or not. They shyed away. Common wisdom seems to change it at 110k so I waited. Inflation might have also caused the price to go up while I wait!

As the oil analyzers said, the color of the oil is not that meaningful.

As for carbon on the plugs, that’s not all that odd - depending. If you still have them, line them all by cylinder # and shoot some pics.

Use whatever oil and plugs Mazda specified for the car. I surely wouldn’t listen to a “parts store guy” (generally speaking - it depends).

My advice?

Worry about something else.

Unless there’s a noticeable change in performance, etc… it’s more likely that you’ll damage the cylinder head or spark plug coil packs trying to “check” the spark plugs.

1 Like

When you buy a used car, it is expected to have to spend a little time and money making maintenance and repairs current. Tires, plugs, coolant, brakes, fluids, etc.

1 Like

Parts counter people are NOT mechanics, they are salespeople.

3 Likes

I would use exactly the brand and model plug installed as original equipment, the type and grade oil specified for it, and would ignore the parts guy’s opinions.

1 Like

I can take photos. Do u want me to post here?

As I updated the OP, I already changed the sparks $18/piece

Last time I was at the Acura dealer they suggested spark plugs. Said about $360, so thats about $60 each. Still gonna do it next time though.

Oil will become darker as the engine is used.
Advice - change the oil as recommended in owner’s manual
and I would change it at least every 6 months even if you don’t make the recommended mileage in the owner’s manual
I only drive about 2k every 6 months. and change the oil every 6 months. My car takes 7 quarts @ about $13 a quart. I usually wait until it’s on sale and by a few cases.
.

Well, I don’t really care… LOL. But yes, if you post pic(s) here, then everyone can look at what you’re talking about and perhaps say whether they think anything bad is going on.

Are you sure it is possible to modify the gap? Some newer tech plugs can’t be gapped w/o risking breaking the electrode. -

Don’t check the plugs mid interval. The reason is that new plugs come with an anti-seize plating on them. They can go hundreds of thousands of miles without seizing. However if you remove the plug, you scrapes some of that plating off and it could seize shortly after reinserting them.

You can use an anti-seize compound if you reinsert them which will prevent seizing. Some of the early anti-seize plating was not compatible with anti-seize compound but I believe that is no longer the case. You have to be very careful with the compound because you do not want to get it on the spark plug tips (electrodes). It can short then out causing a misfire.

Anyone remember the Graphite oil from Arco? t was black right out of the can.

Sure do. I used it in my car for about a year. I can’t remember what made me smarten up and stop. I vaguely recall I began hearing horror stories about it.

Did you find out why your transmission is doing this? There should be little engine braking unless you manually downshift.

My Tacoma uses engine braking on it’s own all the time while slowing down…

Hmm, my domestics do not. I have to downshift at least two gears to feel the engine braking, will see less than 500 RPM increase on the tach. I rarely do it, if light traffic, I will just let off the gas earlier. Heavier traffic just use brakes on the exit ramp.

Either way, I can’t see engine braking as a sign one needs an oil change.

1 Like