Spark plugs and anti-seize compound



What you might be faced with is carbon build-up on the end of the plug.

When this happens, the plug will start to screw out, but when it reaches the carbon on the end, the plug binds.

Here’s what I use to remove such difficult plugs.

As it states on the can, it dissolves carbon, plus is an excellent penetrating oil.

You just have to be patient.



NYBo: _
suggestion about a thread chaser. I ordered one and it should arrive today!! A sincere Thank You, NYBom, for your help!


Thanks for the 'heads up,’ MikeInNH. Valuable input since the next plugs I’ll buy will be NGKs.


About 30 minutes ago I asked a neighbor for advice on getting the plug out, and he made the same suggestion you did about using a breaker bar. I keep one in my truck, it’s actually about 16 inches long :), and it did the trick. The plug is out!!!

I suspect the plug wasn’t seized, but that I was being really, really cautious about getting it out (for reasons I’ve mentioned in this thread several times;; Mojave Desert and all that. :slight_smile: )_.

I’ve never heard of plugs blowing out of holes. And that’s because the previous plug was seized?? Why would they do that?

Rod - thank you for your help, sir !


I think that when I put that set of plugs in, I may have over-torqued the plug that I was having trouble with. I said “was having” because I just used an 18-inch ‘breaker bar’ and the plug came out fairly easily.

Use of the terms ‘hesitating’ and/or 'recalcitrant - I’ve been reading the Federalist Papers the last few days, and when I do that, my writing style actually changes for a while. You may call that weird (both about my style changing and for reading the Federalist Papers).

Thank you, Whitey!


The most common failure causing plugs to blow out is stripped threads in an aluminum head. Plugs left in long enough to seize or improperly installed plugs that seize can result in the threads in an aluminum head to strip out and when new plugs are installed in holes with inadequate metal in the threads to hold it will blow out, stripping the damaged threads in the head. When that happens there are “down and dirty” patch ups that sometimes work but proper repair of a blown out plug requires removing the head to install heli-coils.

Glad you got the old plugs out, hopefully with no cylinder head damage. You seem to have been very attentive to getting the job done correctly the first time and that usually results in success. We read a lot of failures from impatient people here though.


Champion actually makes spark plug lubricant for its aviation plugs. I use it on their REM38E’s. It’s graphite based.


Naw, everyone should read the Federalist papers, and the Constitution, and the Declaration. We are free to work on our own cars in our own garages without interference.


About a year ago I had to replace a cracked exhaust manifold. Now, I have a couple of 'shade tree mechanics" as neighbors, but they often give conflicting advice. So I made the executive decision that when I work on this truck, I need to put anything and everything I can find or learn about to my advantage.

That means asking a lot of questions. That also means not taking their advice sometimes. All of this drives my shade tree mechanics crazy. (“If you’re going to ask me for advice, why don’t you take it.”) I’ve learned to be very diplomatic, and so far I have been very successful at smoothing ruffled feathers and keeping my friends as friends. :slight_smile:

If I find I need a ‘down and dirty’ patch up, I’ll be back. :slight_smile:

Thank you again for your very real help, Rod.


“Right on,” Bing. I think the Federalist Papers are especially important for understanding the Constitution ( the C) because ‘the papers’ speak to the underlying rational and philosophy for the C.

Thanks for the input, Bing!


I understand that some plug makers to that for varying applications. Thanks, tom418!


I’ll save that info about Sea Foam. But I’m happy with the Kroil oil. It was used originally for the our branches of the military for work on their vehicles. I give that high marks because the armed forces don’t fool around when it comes to the ‘tools’ it chooses to use.


Actually in looking at the Deep Creep site, I saw the Bug-B-Gone stuff from Seafoam. I’m gonna try that when I find it. I really am not happy with that Turtle Wax stuff. Not much better than just car wash.


FWIW, as a driveway diy’er for years I’ve always used a tiny amount of moly-lube on the threads before install to prevent the plugs from sticking. Molybdenum based grease in other words. Before I did this, sometimes had difficulty getting the plug to budge on removal. After this method, to date never had a plug that was difficult to remove. Can’t speak to every car of course, but it seems to work for me on a 90’s Corolla, 70’s Ford truck, and 70’s VW Rabbit at least. I recently replaced the plugs in my truck. I don’t drive the truck too many miles, so the plugs had been installed for at least 6 years. Nary a problem removing them, came out slick as a whistle.


Have not seen mol-lube mentioned before. Just got my Permatex compound today so I’ll have to stick to that (it’s a question of $$$). Thanks for your input, GeorgeSanJose!


No Problem…as long as you don’t affect with me and my life.

. Don’t take your used oil and dump it in the back of YOUR yard and think it’s not affecting anyone else…which many live-free-or-die people think is perfectly OK since it’s their property.