I’m not suggesting you leave it loose while you drive. That could be dangerous. When the no-start problem occurs, loosen the cap, wait a few minutes, then try starting the engine. If it starts right up, that could mean the problem is just the gas cap.
Ahhhh… Thanks. I misunderstood your statement.
So, you’re saying. When I get the gas, and the car won’t start. I stop at first try, loose the cap for a few minutes and re-start the engine?
Because what I have done so far, when the first try fails, I keep turning my keo a few more times til it starts
Yes. Try that as an experiment. Don’t drive with the gas cap loose, b/c gas could spill out in event of an accident…
Thank you I will try that tomorrow… I am supposed to bring the car back on wednesday morning to have them replace the fuel pump.
This looks the evap canister you were talking about? only the call it vapor vanister? http://www.mitsubishipartssource.com/p/Mitsubishi__Endeavor/Filter-Vapor-Canister-Filter-Vapor-filter/49038538/MR464068.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla
One more thing -totally unrelated- what happens when you use OBDII scan reader with the engine on… i know its supposed to be on “start” position only?
No experience w/ Mitsubishi evap canister designs. Best to rely on your local parts vendor for that advice.
An no experience w/OBD II - scanner restrictions on Mitsubishi’s … but I wouldn’t imagine using one with the engine on would cause problems. Every scanner is different, so best to follow the manual’s advice. Some scanner functions seem like they would only work w/the engine on, like the fuel trim function.
I think I made this point already, but I’ll say it again. The best way to fix modern cars is to do the needed diagnostic testing before replacing parts. The replace this, replace that method worked on older cars, but with newer ones you can quickly run out of money before running out of guesses.
I totally agree with you on the diagnostic testing. My local mechanic who found the P0495 code told me to run a test to see exactly what the problem is. Unfortunately this costs money. When I brought this up to the dealership’s mechanic, they refused to do so saying “no point” and they replaced the purge valve. Now, they want to replace the fuel pump.
This has been going for 2 weeks +, if replacing the fuel pump doesn’t fix this, I’m just gonna go to my local mechanic and ask them to fix this. I’ll spend a few hundred dollars for my own sanity and peace of mind,
AGain, thank you for your replies. Very much appreciated.
Best of luck there OP. It’s a frustrating experience, the only thing I can say is you aren’t alone. Emissions evap system problems are one of the most common complaints we get here. You might try the search feature from the main forum page, and bring up some of the recent threads discussed here on this topic. It’s a fairly common in Ray’s newspaper column too, the archive of that is in the blog section here, under Dear Car Talk. Unfortunately the format of this site was changed about 6 months ago and I no longer have much luck finding that blog.
See if you can find out exactly what they did here. Corrosion protection if it gets into the fuel system in any way could really muck things up, especially the EVAP system and possibly the fuel pump lines.
The shift interlock assembly can cause a total lack of starter response to turning the key. It sounds like you may be intermittently struggling with this, although this is not your only problem.
Hey guys,
UPDATE (if anyone cares)
Unfortunately not good news. Dealership replaced the fuel pump but the problem is still there. Also, there are other issues came up (brake/axel).
They also have stopped responding to me. I have escalated the matter to DMV. DMV will investigate this and ask the dealership to repair. However they need a written report from a licensed repair shop to state exactly what the problem is. and unfortunately i will have to pay for this diagnostic out of my own pocket
I brought the car to a mechanic by my house today and he couldn’t figure out why. My question since the problem is relating to P0455 and my car is hard to start after refueling…
will a smog/evap test determine the problem? and stupid question is evap and smog test the same? If not can anyone tell me what test should I ask to be performed?
Thanks
I think you should take the car to a reputable shop or a Mitsubishi dealer, and have a complete inspection done. A written report needs to have authenticity and you won’t get this here. You don’t have much choice but to cough up the money if you want to elevated this with your DMV (in my state the DMV couldn’t care less and wouldn’t get involved in those type of things).
I only see three choices left. Pay for a complete diagnostic as Kurt says or see if the dealer will take the vehicle back and put you in another vehicle ( doubtful) or just wash your hands and trade at another dealer and take your lumps.
That’s what I mean… what kind of diagnostic? What do you mean by “complete diagnostic”?
Yes. But what kind of diagnostic is what I’m asking. just “full” diagnostic.
Unfortunately, I have to pay money for this. No way around it.
Whatever you tell the DMV or ask them to do for you is what needs to be documented. If your complaint is the hard start after fill-up, brakes or axles, etc…that need to be looked at and documented.
If I was you, I would ask them to do a complete inspection or you may miss something and start the whole thing again with another problem at a later time.
ok. thanks. will do an update!!
This link has a diagram of the Mitsubishi evap system, might come in handy as you discuss the problem with your shop. Best of luck there OP.
Thank you sir. Would an emission test discover the problem? Is emission test an evap test? smog test? Or they’re all different tests?
Most likely – as far as the cranks but fails to start problem – you have an evap component that is blocking flow for some reason. I’m referring to the fails to start problem, not the code for the “large leak”. Better shops have scan tools that can open and close some of those components on scan tool command, and that could help the shop figure out what exactly is causing the blockage. The other kind of evap test is a smoke test, which finds evap leaks. Evap leaks wouldn’t normally cause the engine to fail to start when the gas tank is recently re-filled.
Suggest when discussing this with your shop to be crystal clean which problem you are talking about.
Problem one: Engine cranks but won’t start after re-fill.
Problem two: Check engine diagnostic code indicating large evap leak.
BTW, A shop will sometimes use an emissions sniffer to find evap leaks.
Ok thanks. I will update you guys!
Kurt mentioned to take you vehicle to a Mitsubishi dealer, what kind of dealer has been working on you vehicle? Not Mitsubishi?
After the first failed repair I would have taken the service advisor or technician to the gas station and demonstrated the problem. The technician is not going to fill your tank with his money so his is going to guess and may not understand what the customers complaint is. Also after this many failed repair attempts I would not have accepted the car back without verifying the repair.
Emissions sniffer? Do you mean a tail pipe exhaust gas analyzer?
A combustible gas detector is inexpensive and much more practical than a the emissions test equipment for identifying gasoline vapor leaks.