I don’t think so. Op said that it sounds like the engine wants to start.
My suggestion would be for the OP for the next few times to fill the gas tank ONLY half full and see if that makes a difference. If it does, I am not sure what that would mean, other than a going bad fuel pump.
Edit: your engine code P0455 could also be set by a faulty differential pressure sensor, located on top of the fuel tank.
Another idea to try, when this hard to start things happens push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there for the next start attempt. Does it start ok then? If so that would confirm the problem is an overly rich mixture, which will provide your shop a clue as to what might be wrong.
Thank you! I will try this when I get my car back and if the car still has the same issue.
One question: the mechanic at the dealership says it might be the fuel pump? I don’t think that sounds right. If it is, shouldn’t the problem happen all the time? not just after refueling? Could a bad fuel pump cause this kind of issue?
Yes, a bad fuel pump could cause it. But in most cases a marginal fuel pump will show symptoms when the tank is near empty, not full. I wouldn’t be inclined to replace the fuel pump unless there was other confirming measurements, like low fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If the fuel pump wasn’t delivering enough fuel, the hold the pedal to the floor experiment would make things worse, not better, so that’s a clue anyway.
Okay. Thank you
Update:
The car is at the dealership (different mechanic). They just called me, they just put in gas into the car and the car starts fine. They didn’t fix or do anything to it. They’re doing a few other tests right now to make sure everything is good before giving it back to me later today.
Backstory:
The last time this happened to me was Saturday Morning. Then I brought the car to the mitsubishi center to have 2 safety recalls fixed. Then I brought the car to the dealership to have them fix the hard to start issue.
2.THE DEALERSHIP WILL INSTALL A REPAIR PARTS KIT INTO THE SHIFT INTERLOCK ASSEMBLY, FREE OF CHARGE.
Do you (or anyone else here) think, either of these safety recalls problems might have caused this? Mitsubishi fixed these 2 issues for me before I brought the car back to the dealership
A corroded fuel filler pipe could present a fire hazard, and it could turn on the check engine light, but I don’t see how it could make the car hard to start. The shift interlock ass’y probably prevents the car from cranking unless the transmission is in neutral or park — that rrrr rrr rrr sound – but you description of the problem doesn’t correspond to that. You say it cranks ok, just won’t pop and start. If it won’t crank at all with the key in start, or maybe won’t even go to the start position, that could be the shift interlock.
In the meantime, try only filling to 3/4 full. See if that has any effect.
Just got the car back. Unfortunately they lied (or misunderstood the problem). The problem still exists.As soon as I got the car back, I drove it around for 15 minutes and put in 1.5 gallon into the car. The same problem is still there…
Brought it back to the dealership. The owner came. We got into an argument. He accused me of being difficult and coming to the dealership one problem after another which is stupid because I told the office I had 3 issues (Steering wheel, leaking and this won’t start after refuel issue). He told me I bought a used car, not new. and since the check engine light is no on, he has no obligation to fix anything for me. Yada yada yada. Eventually he agreed and asked me to bring the car back and he said he’d replace the fuel pump(???)
I took a video when I put in the 1.5 gallon gas… it’s not a good quality and the sun is blaring. So, I apologize if you have hard time seeing/hearing the noise
Any inputs would be greatly appreciated
Technical difficulties prevent me from listening, but hopefully somebody else will chime in on the vdo. I’ll add that vdo and audio files are rarely diagnostic. An experienced mechanic is able to hear very subtle sound differences by listening at different places, and with the engine running at different rpms or different loads, which allows them to eliminate by listening certain causes, but that pretty much has to be done in person.
Like I say above, while this could be a fuel pump problem, I wouldn’t replace it just based on your symptoms. I’d want to do a fuel pressure test. They’d have to do that test at the time the symptom was happening. That might require that you drive the car to them when it is happening, and they stop what they are doing , veryify the symptom, and do a fuel pressure test. Whether the shop has the flexibility, hard to say.
I realize this is a frustrating problem for you. A car that won’t start reliably causes you all sorts of problems, from missing appointments, and might put you in a dangerous situation. But the shop usually can’t diagnose & fix a problem if it isn’t happening when they are testing the car. Ask the shop manager if he’s willing to temporarily have one of the staff stop what they are doing next time you bring it in with this symptom occurring at that moment.
Whether the shop should do this free of charge, or bill you for it, depends on the nature of the wording of the contract you have with them. It sounds like they are trying to accommodate you, so suggest to keep calm and just continue to be persistent. My only complaint with the shop I’d have if this was my car was using the parts replacement method a little overly aggressively, and not relying on fairly easy to do diagnostic tests first.
My guess, this isn’t a fuel pump problem. But that’s only a guess.
I am not going to go through all this but are you stopping when the pump handle clicks off or trying to put as much fuel in as you can. Second thought after they replace the fuel pump drive it until you have 1/4 tank left then go back and have the person you are dealing with go to the station with you.
ok. Thank you!
yes. I always stop at the click.
Actually the first time I noticed this, the low fuel light was on and I only put in 4-5 gallons. It happened!
All this time I thought it only had a problem when you filled up. The 4 or 5 gallons would not be a fill up so I can see why the people trying to solve this for are frustrated.
Yeah it doesn’t matter if I fill it up or just a few gallons, it happens. EVERY TIME.
It doesn’t happen when I don’t fill the gas tank. It starts fine any other time. It runs great with no issues.
If the shop wants to replace something rather than doing the necessary diagnostic tests, me, I’d start with replacing the evap canister rather than the fuel pump. I’d clean all the valves that process effluent from the canister too. That seems the more likely culprit.
Another idea folks here have used when they have intermittent problems like this, they let the car’s staff drive the car to and from work, while you either rent a car, or the shop provides you a loaner. That method seems to be pretty effective at getting to the bottom of this kind of problem quickly.
First of all thank you so much for replying.
Second is this what you mean? http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/mitsubishi/endeavor/2005?vehicleSet=true Vapor Canister?
At this point, I think I might buy this myself and go to local mechanic to fix it. I just don’t think it’s worth my time, stress to go to that dealership again and deal with them
“Another idea folks here have used when they have intermittent problems like this, they let the car’s staff drive the car to and from work, while you either rent a car, or the shop provides you a loaner. That method seems to be pretty effective at getting to the bottom of this kind of problem quickly.”
That’s the problem… the car was with them this weekend and their second mechanic supposedly filled the gas twice and they started fine. But it’s not. Either they lied or misunderstood the issue.
You’ve already tried the loosening the gas cap experiment when this happens, right?
That looks like an evap canister. I can’t say yes or no, that’s the correct one for your vehicle tho. The canister is a container filled with charcoal and has a number of valves, some of which operate passively, and some which are electric solenoid controlled. They tend to have an input port from the fuel tank evap line, an output port to the engine through the purge valve, and a port or ports which vent air in both directions.
You can get a mechanic to install the part but it will not be warrantied so if that does solve your problem you will have spent money for no reason.
I am surprised the dealer is doing any thing at all considering this a 2005 vehicle.
No I haven’t. I just got the car back today. I will do it tonight til tomorrow…
How long would you suggest me leaving the loose gas cap on? would just a 1-2 mile trip be sufficient? Like, I loose the gas cap, drive a round a bit and stop at a gas station to get gas?
Why are you surprised? Do you think I’m being unreasonable for asking this to be fixed?
I got the vehicle less than 2 weeks ago and it has a 30 day warranty. Also, in NY, I have called the DMV and they confirmed the Evap system is the dealer’s responsibility even if it’s a used car.