Is this it?
A few comments:
When gasoline sits around for more than about 3 months or so, it starts to oxidize and form “gums” and “varnishes” (a chemical reaction with the air). As their names suggest, they are thick and sticky. They tend to clog up the numerous small passages in the carburetor, necessitating a cleaning and rebuild (if this carb hasn’t been rebuilt in 20 years, it probably needs it anyway, just on general principles). If the problem isn’t too severe, maybe a tank of fresh gas/oil + a bottle of Gumout carb cleaner + a lot of time might do the trick, but it’s likely you’ll have to add carb rebuilding to your repertoire. Sorry. There are “gas stabilizer” products that inhibit oxidation, but they wear out in six months or so.
I take it you’ve been able to turn the engine over with the pull starter? That means that luckily the engine isn’t rusted up inside or seized. Can you smell any gas odors from the exhaust (muffler)? That would give you a hint if gas/oil is getting through the carb (if you can smell it) and the problem is more on the ignition/spark plug side. If no gas smell, you’re probably not getting oil into the crankshaft and cylinder, so don’t pull too many times (no lubrication). You can pull out the spark plug, wire brush off the black crap and set the gap, connect the spark plug wire and (wearing a heavy rubber glove) hold the threaded part of the plug against some metal part of the engine. Have someone pull the engine over and see if you can see a spark jump the gap. If there’s a nice fat blue spark, the ignition and plug are OK and the problem is with the carb. By the way, try not to shock yourself in the process (I’ve done it and lived to tell about it, but it doesn’t tickle). The gap is a little over 1/32 inch, almost the thickness of a penny, if you don’t want to invest in a set of spark plug gauges.
Snowblowers generally do not have air cleaners, since post-snowfall air generally isn’t too dusty. But yours may be the rare exception.
A zerk fitting is a grease fitting probably about 1/8 to 3/16 inch diameter and sticking out maybe 1/4 to 5/16 inch, with a hole in the middle where the grease gun pumps grease into the fitting. “Zerk” is, I would guess, a trade name that has become widely used (like kleenex or fiberglass).
There is no great way to dispose of old gas. DON’T pour it on the ground or down the drain! If you have a BBQ or a trash burn barrel, you might CAREFULLY use a little at a time to start the fire. Remember that a gas fire goes “whoosh” much more violently than BBQ lighter fluid does. Just keep it sealed (and outside) in a glass Mason jar or something. I’d hesitate to suggest dumping it into your car’s gas tank, as the oil will make your car smoke something awful, and the gums and varnishes might damage your car. A few ounces per fillup might work, so long as you dilute it with lots of fresh gas. As a last resort, ask a gas station, your municipal recycling center, or the local/state EPA for how to properly dispose of old gas (but don’t be surprised if you’re charged a fee). Finally, be careful if you use a siphon to remove the old gas. It doesn’t take much gas in your mouth to induce chemical pneumonia. Go to an auto parts store and get a siphon hose with a little bulb or bellows pump to start the flow.
Good luck and best wishes!
Yes sir, that’s exactly what it looks like!
Marnet
Thank you. I was wondering how to siphon the gas without using the old suck on a hose routine. Don’t think my asthma would like the result!
From what everyone is saying, I’m going to try the basics suggested that I, as a complete and total beginner, can handle. If this gets to a carb rebuild then I likely will let someone more knowledgeable take on that chore.
I’ll go step by step with changing out the gas, checking for a spark and changing the plug if needed, lubricating, teflon coating, etc.
Thank you all so very much for the help. Nothing ventured, nothing learned.
Marnet
I just noticed your snowblower is a 2-stroke and not a 4-stroke. I’m going to retract my above posting a bit. The carburetors on the 2-strokes tend to not have a fuel bowl like the four strokes do. That means there’s a better chance that a good carburetor cleaning (and new gaskets) will solve your problem better than my original post indicated.
Joe
That half and half gas/oil mix has to go. I know you said 32 to 1 is what it takes. It should start with the right fuel mixture. You don’t have to do everything yourself but if you are siphoning gasoline, you had better do it outside at least 15 feet from a building. If you have ignition Houston, you want to be able to put it out before the house catches on fire. A small engine repair place could do the work for you. It will cost a little too much but it may be worth it. The lawn mower will be easy, but if the edger resembles a string trimmer, you will probably give up on it. You’re in luck if it resembles a lawnmower engine.
I’ll get rid of the tank of gas that is half old and half new. I’ll also double check several more repair places for estimates. If the cost for everything I need to do the job isn’t that much less than paying someone who already has the right tools and is mostly charging for their time, labor, and expertise I may let them do it while I concentrate on using my time to make a living. On the other hand, learning to do this for myself has a certain appeal too!
The edger I mentioned is a Trim-All Model KS-122-A which is a good 20 to 25 years old and has the entire engine housing and gas tank exterior showing a lot of rust despite being well cared for.
The lawn mower is a Cub Cadet SwiftStart SRS621 self-propelled push mower only 7 years old and which has already had one full servicing tune-up from the mower dealer. It was working fine last spring but then wouldn’t start late in the summer after a three or four month hiatus when the neighbor cut the grass for me for a time.
Dad was always careful to let lawn equipment thoroughly cool off after use, then hose it down well to clean it, and then let it air dry prior to putting it away, whether the lawn mower, edger, snow blower, or non-powered equipment such as a spreader or even a shovel. I do the same with all outdoor equipment including my small gardening hand tools.
Each time I shovel snow, I clean and dry the shovel afterwards, then give it a light wax job. Keeps down the rust and makes the snow stick less to the shovel next time. Still using a shovel older than I am!
Marnet
I’d change the belts too, even of they look good. And buy an extra of each. You haven’t lived until you’ve broken a belt while snowblowing and not had a spare.
That just happened to me two storms ago. I can only blow the snow one way and it was the very wet heavy stuff…so the blower was only able to blow it to the other side of the driveway…Then the belt broke and I didn’t have a spare…So I had to shovel…also ended up shoveling the snow I had snow blown since that snow just ended up on the other side of the driveway.
actually it does have an air filter. the steel cover over the air intake above the carb has either a paper or a foam air filter inside it.
I’ve NEVER seen a snowblower with a air filter…Lawnmowers yes…snow blowers…NO.
your snow blower is jelled. If you leave the gas in over the summer for one year this will happen. Like others said you need to take out the old spark plug and gas and then clean out the carborator. If you think this is difficult you can take it to a snow blower service store and it costs about 35-40 bucks.
Take the spark plug out and go to Auto Zone . . and ask them to sell you a gauge which measures the gap. It’ll be about $2. Have them show you how to use it . . . while you are there buy a can of starting fluid . . . and then go home and drain the old gas. Is the gas an oil/gas mix? If so . . mix it properly, re-install the now gapped spark plug, fill it up with gas, check the oil (change it if you have not already) and get ready to pull start it. Spray a little starting fluid in the carb (with the air cleaner removed) and put your hand on the throttle and’or choke. It should start now, try to keep it running and run the gas through it. Change the oil again (it’s only a pint folks!) and clean the plug with sandpaper, then re-gap to specs. Start and run it . . . and BE CAREFUL! Good luck. Rocketman
Thanks. Stopped by the store and got a spark plug wrench (handle plus both sizes of the wrench socket since they were only 99 cents each), carb cleaner, starter fluid today. When I’ve time over the next few days will take out the spark plug, take it in to get the proper identical spark plug, get it gapped and do the rest.
I’ve never tackled anything with engines before but am looking forward to learning. This is gonna be fun. Or at least I hope to enjoy it and be successful in my attempts!
the gap is set by opening or closing the distance between the little tang by the end of the threads and the center prong (ask the autozone guy for spark plug feeler gauge set). you then need to chack spark by laying the threaded end against the engine while trying to turn it over (look for a spark at the gap) If you have none, you may have a magneto problem, if you do have spark you may add some gas to the end of the plug prior to putting in and tighting. Add some fuel additive (Octane booster, etc again found at Autozone) and try starting.
If after doing all the things above, especially the carb clean up, new gas etc, it still won’t start try this. As you are cranking the engine, spray some of the carb cleaner into the intake, preferably with the filter removed temporarily. Slight risk of a flashback, so stay to the side. This usually starts most anything, especially in cold weather.
For the next storage period, ther is a product called “Stab-ill” at auto stores. Mix with gas before storage as directed to prevent gumming up. Or you have the option to move to Buffalo. Storage not likely to exceed a month or two!
Walt; catcar38@roadrunner.com