Lubricant advice, Snowblower not car

So I bought a used Ariens snowblower years ago. It has a wheel that slides across a shaft, like on a turntable to control speed and reverse as it goes to the other side of the rotating plate. Going to get it ready soon, but come cold temps the thing gets stuck and will not move so I am at whatever speed it is stuck in. 6 years of tries. Boat wheel bearing grease, fail, good cleaning and nothing fail, wd40 fail, lps fail, pb blaster fail, turbo oil fail. It is clean and shiny, but every time first snow stuck, no reverse or speed changes as it s stuck in place. Possibly graphite my next attempt. HELP PLEASE! I can pull a plate loosen it up, works one round and the next time fail. I hate having to do that in the cold and snow.

Well for my Toro (most of them are all the same) it just says to lube once a year with auto engine oil. That’s all I’ve done. So I think you have a problem with either a sticky mechanism or the hub that is called a trunion for Toro anyway. The hub of the disc. I guess you really need to disconnect the shifter to see where the hang up is. If the hub is shot, not sure what the price is, never changed anything except the rubber disc. Problem is, I don’t think you can even get it off if you can’t get that wheel off that you foamed up. Gotta be able to pull the shaft out. Taryl has got a youtube on changing the wheel if I can find it, but has to be either a linkage sticking or the hub shot.


Here’s an additional thought. Watch when Taryl pulls that shaft bushing out and it is worn. He said that could cause intermittent loss of drive as the shaft wobbles. Could it also cause the wheel to hang up? Don’t know but something to check if they are all worn out. Still probably have to get that wheel off though. Might be time to just upgrade.

You don’t say what year or size your Ariens is, I have a 1972 8hp. They sold it as a 2 wheel tractor with sno -thrower attachment back then. Mine has a grease fitting on the shaft between the left wheel and the body of the machine when looking from behind, Greasing that fitting greased everything inside the housing that needs it. I use a tube of chassis grease with moly in my grease gun. Mine has a full differential with a locking button on the left wheel.

I will try and find lubriplate. @bing there are no bearings, just a square shaft and a wheel that moves along it. Controllers are fine, just not strong enough, a few whacks and it slides freely until the next use. @oldtimer-11 no grease fitting on the weel or shaft, all else has been lubed and works fine. Arens ST524 here is an image. the speed control moves the wheel along the shaft. this one would be in reverse, as the friction wheel moves to the right it adjusts the speed to forward and faster. it closes down on a rotating disc.

The bearings/bushings are at each end of the hex shaft. If that is yours, you might try using carb cleaner to clean all that gunk off the shaft, then just oil it and see how it works, but there has to be a bind somewhere.

You are right, But I have cleaned it lubed it, leave it at 2 or 3 speed and that is where it sticks when it snows. Works fine in the garage until snow time. Just a generic picture. Speed and reverse is what it controls.

3 reasons for this: 1)Your drive plate(disc) is dirty.Clean with aerosol brake cleaner or acetone.
2) the friction disc rubber is getting thin(replace with new one. 3) the drive plate has come loose due to vibration(put tread lock paste on center screw and fasten until tight. Hope this will help

I’m on my 3rd evap fan in my fridge. I know it’s cold, probably -10f on avg. why does it keep failing? The bearing is sealed. The parts come in box that says made in China. Thought they were good. I take it out and fan spins fine. It’s not seized. Yes, it is getting 120v.

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The wheel will not move when not engaged.

I was told that the circuit board attachment for those fans was causing the failures. The tech who told me refuses to repair them after repeated failed repairs.

In addition I’d add that the shaft that the rubber drive wheel slides on looks pretty dicey with dirty grease and corrosion that could easily bind up when it’s under pressure.
Replace the whole assembly is your best option but if parts aren’t available, clean, polish and lube may get you a few more seasons

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That was a generic photo, 60’s now it is going to get cleaned and polished again. Probably a new mechanism would be good, will try again this year. @bing if hub is shot better go buy a new snowblower. Like I say clean it lube it works fine till it snows. Lubriplate as suggested by @old_mopar_guy will be my next try if I can find some locally.

You can get it on amazon

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Barky, I just remembered that when I ran out of lubriplate, I successfully substituted white lithium grease.

Impossible to push or pull the blower right? I suggest you see this video made for MTD snowblower,same principle with an Ariens.

The snowblower drives fine, speed change wheel gets stuck on the shaft, as I said I leave it in speed 2 or 3, it shifts fine changing speed or reverse in the garage, stuck when I need it for snow. In neutral wheel will not move, so I beat it into being able to slide, lubed it with all my thoughts, it drives fine, just got to release or employ the drive as needed when the wheel is stuck. Wanted lube ideas so the wheel does not get stuck on the shaft it slides on.

Is the drive plate grooved out? If so the friction wheel will hang in the groove.

It sticks on the shaft while not engaged, ie the wheel is clear of the plate. It will not move until I whack it, then have tried my best slippery things but the wheel sticks in place until I forcefully move it. it works fine in the garage until it snows and I need it, then it is stuck at whatever speed I have left it at, 2 or 3 usually just because I know it is going to happen. In leu of things I am thinking maybe a 6oo grit paper. moving the wheel back and forth over it on the shaft as it would be a pain to disassemble, and going to try some lubriplate as suggested by @old_mopar_guy