Snapped bolt, how to remove?

Crazy glue wont hold. Gas vapors will break it down. What is the baking soda for?

I think you are wrong on it being normally open. Try blowing through it with power off.

I am 100% sure about the solenoid being open when NOT energized.
Baking soda instantly solidifies crazy glue. A lot of people are recommending the crazy glue and baking soda method.
The JB Weld products I found clearly states that they work on some plastics, not all.

I tried putting 2 rubber gaskets on the upside down bolt and tried to add 2 part JB Weld. The clearing between the post and the canister wall was so small and the JB Weld was so thick that I ended up putting a lot on the bolt thread and ruining it. I have new bolts. Is epoxy the best solution here?
I was thinking about using the orange rubber washers in the photo as a bolt head sealant inside the canister and then drip either thin epoxy or super glue from the top. Are those rubber washers a good idea or just go with bare metal


The vent solenoid is normally open so the gas tank can vent as the gas tank is being filled and as gas is being drawn from the gas tank.

The only time it closes is when the EVAP system performs its self-test for leaks.


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So it’s like Zip Kicker then…A warning, if it works similar to Zip Kicker (essentially an accelerator that makes the glue set almost instantly via a heat reaction if I remember correctly, I haven’t used it in years), it will set the bond almost instantly, however the bond was more brittle as well

I’m as cheap (cheaper) than the next guy. But if I was that concerned with an evap code, I think I’d break down and buy new (or salvaged) parts at this point.

Scrapyard_John I looked into a few used ones on eBay. The sellers are not guaranteeing air-tightness which means their decades old canister may have hairline cracks.
pyrolord314 I tried using 2 part JB Weld but it was very thick. The space between the bolt post and the canister hole is a few millimeters at the best and I cannot get JB Weld or any other epoxy through.
Here is the latest update:
I am waiting for some good advise before doing the super glue fix which is permanent.
I tried to seal the canister bolt hole with my own own 2 ply orange rubber gasket and attached a nut on top as shown in the photos from earlier today. JB Weld method did not work, too thick for the tiny opening, just wasted a bolt.
As I mentioned on Sunday, the new solenoid is defective and not holding a vacuum when energized. The old solenoid after spraying PB Blaster, transmission fluid and cleaning up with Brake Cleaner, now holds a vacuum, again by mouth-air-sucking test. Fixed the exhaust issue. All exhaust and O2 sensor related faults P0136, P1441, P0446 are gone. So, I mounted the old solenoid with one bolt, sealed other hole with my double orange rubber gaskets. After driving for hundred miles and several stops, the Torque Pro OBD2 app now shows only one of the the original fault code that is P0440. The car finally completed the EGR System test per Torque OBD2 reader which it could not complete for many weeks due to the fault codes.
When I opened the gas cap 10 minutes ago, a whole bunch of air hissed and rushed inside the gas can, so my home made orange sealant gasket was holding a vacuum. Is that a correct assumption?

For heaven’s sake. Take a carriage bolt or plow bolt, cut a slot if you have to to be able to slip it behind the canister. Put something like tape around the threads to protect them and slip the bolt in, the dispense some JB into the hole and pull it against the inside of the canister. Then let it set.