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Should I buy this car?

http://www.copart.com/c2/onSaleResults.html?_eventId=getLot&execution=e1s2&lotId=19898692&returnPage=SEARCH_RESULTS

It has a salvage title; I know that and this car got into an accident, and that’s rear side collision. I think including frame repair this car will be needing rear suspension parts as well. However, my main concern is engine and transmission so after getting accident from side is there any chances that this car might have problems in engine or transmission. I currently drive an accord and having transmission problems and paid $1800 for rebuild it and after three years still got transmission problems, so I’m not sure. What should I do I’m student and broke but mechanic on the side? I can change suspension parts brakes tune ups and more so I’m looking for a car for myself and trying to save money. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated and thanks for reading this long paragraph.

I wouldn’t. That car will never be the same and will likely never be safe.

Salvage title? Stay away unless using it as a “parts car” that will never be titled or driven.

Avoid this car; there will be hidden problems that will give you financial headached later.

Run away from this vehicle. All I see is “Red Flags.”

If you can get it for less than $500 and will do most of the work yourself, you might have a go at it. Demand some real photos of the damage and not that garbage they put on the web site. You need to see the rear passenger side with the dead door moved and pictures of the undercarriage in the damaged area.

You must be in the automotive business to bid on a vehicle from this auction.

http://www.copart.com/c2/buyingOverview.html

The state of Nevada has laws restricting the sale of salvage vehicles to the general public.

When a vehicle has been damaged to the extent it becomes a salvage vehicle, an orange-colored Salvage Title must be issued. The responsibility to complete this process rests with:

•The insurance company if the company declares the vehicle to be a total loss.
•The lienholder, if any, if there is no comprehensive/collision insurance. The registered owner must notify any lienholder of the damage to the vehicle within 10 days and the lienholder must apply for a salvage title within 30 days.

•The registered owner, if there is no insurance or lienholder and the owner wishes to retain the vehicle. The owner must submit the current title and an Application for Salvage Title (RD-213) within 30 days. The owner has the option to sell the vehicle to a DMV-licensed salvage pool, automobile auction, rebuilder, automobile wrecker or a new or used motor vehicle dealer. If this occurs, the licensee is responsible for obtaining the Salvage Title.

If the vehicle is repaired and passes inspection it can be sold with a “Rebuilt vehicle” title.

The value is stated to be about 20 grand and they’re figuring 17 grand to fix it? With those kind of numbers it should be declared a total and done away with.

If it could be gotten cheap enough and you can do the work yourself, and assuming there is no frame damage or floor pan buckling, then it might be worth a shot.

Mr. Sanders comment about getting it for 500 and if you could see some real pics, or inspect it first, then it’s at least feasible, all depending.
The ad shows a lot of fluff pics but very few involving the actual damage so that makes it suspect.

It depends on the real condition. It may be a good deal, or not. Certainly I would choose the a car that did not have a salvage title over the otherwise the same, but that salvage title is a factor to be considered. Normally I would avid a car with a salvage title, but under the right conditions, might go for it.

Personally I would have a friendly body shop. Someone you know personally measure the suspension points. If the frame is straight you are good. It looks like a deal maybe thats because someone measured the frame points and decided its a parts car.

I would check with your insurance company, some will do liability only for salvage titles, some will not even insure. We had problems transmission wise with a vehicle $200 from being totaled but repaired instead, spend the extra to get a clean machine and take out the potential doubt and problems

Unless you have a frame machine. I can tell it will need a body pull.

Are you n Las Vegas? Otherwise you have to plan on transporting it to your location. Call the LV Copart lot and see what their rules are on private buyers. Around here private buyers can buy “totals” but not clean title cars. I suspect that Nevada_545 is correct. His first name is Nevada, after all. If private buyers can’t buy, then you will have to locate someone to buy through. You will have to pay that person, and Copart (through the nose) for the privlege of doing business with them. A car like that will probably cost you $500 to bail out of their facility on top of your bid. It is (non)-highway robbery.

The engine and transmission, which was your original question, are probably fine.

It would appear to me that the B pillar is probably pushed in. The floor may be too. Fixing this sort of thing is no big deal, given the proper equipment and skill. Unless you are a Copart member, you can’t even go see it in person without PAYING Copart.They cleverly put the bent door where you can’t see all the damage. That will require a visit to a frame shop. This is not a car that you can fix yourself . It can be fixed, but it will require a lot of time, effort, and money. Even used parts will not be very cheap.

If you think you can pick this car up for a song, you are probably incorrect. My guess is that it will bring somewhere in the $5000 range. BTDT too many times to remember.

I took a look around this site. There are a lot better deals on running ready to drive cars. PS for all guys you like old cars, check out the classic car tab.

@oldbodyman You are right, but some of the stuff they call classic is just old. They also have cars that dealers are willing to sell wholesale, and repos from various lending institutions. Those will all say “clean title” which to them means it’s not been wrecked and issued a salvage title.

You should also figure on this car being worth (maybe and at best) about half of what any book figure is once it’s repaired properly and a branded title can often be a kiss of death when trying to resell a car; unless you’re planning on practically giving it away.
Many buyers see a salvage title and assume the worst even if the damage that led to that title being branded was comparatively harmless.

I wonder if our OP did anything about this car. (?) It sold on 8/16. I was planning to watch, but completely forgot. There is no way to find out what it brought after the sale. Copart keeps secrets.