This is a 2008 Honda Accord EX-L V6 and I really think I could repair it. It has 114k and runs and drives smooth. Is there a tool I could use to push the roof back in place a little? I’m not wanting it to look perfect just to be fixed enough to where I can fit in new windows and get the car road ready. It was tree that fell on it.
A body shop can get it a lot straighter than you can but it has a 60% chance of leaking badly. If the price is right, you can do anything. Portapower is one of the things you can use. Spelling may be different. You will distort whatever you push against. I recommend a car that is in better shape because they don’t cost that much with that year and mileage. They will also have more resale value.
They are only asking $1800 for it. So do you think it’s a good buy?
That is something you must decide after getting estimates. What’s in your wallet? Do not answer that.
Well I feel like 1800 for a car with 114k is really good it’s just the repairs that make me wanna cry. So this car is a total loss? Or do you think if I keep it covered in the rain and drive it like this until i.get money for repairs itll be ok?
I wouldn’t touch this with a 10-foot pole connected to another 10-foot pole! It will not be possible to fix this as a DIY project, and professional body work would cost thousands–hence why the insurance totaled it. This car is really only useful to someone who owns a similar model and needs a replacement motor or transmission, but at $1800 that’s too much for a parts car.
A 2008, for that price I do not think it is a good buy. Course I know I have done a fair share of repairs with a dent puller, and maybe you could convert it into a hillbilly convertible (yes I am a hillbilly so I can say that) . I would offer $250, more than the scrap tow, and get ready for some custom fun. I know all is good besides the top, if you have the time and inclination give it a whirl!
This is one of those “if you have to ask” questions. You don’t have the ability or the tools, based on your question. That is extensive damage, more than can be pushed out with simple tools.
It’s a write-off. Don’t touch it.
$1800!? I wouldn’t give you $18 for it.
While I do agree with the advise over here that $1,800 is not something to pay for this car, it is not $18 either.
If damage was not there, KBB’s guess is $3,450 for trade, $5,550 for private-party and $6,800 for dealer’ retail, so car might have SOME value, although I do agree that $1,800 is way above reasonable.
Since OP has asked a question, I think we better explain WHY the math does not work, especially to the person who will not put his own elbow grease into it.
In my view, this car would have something like $1,500-2,000 worth of “heavy body work” with unibody pulling and getting it into the reasonable form and getting glass/moonroof into shape, then it would have 4 panels to be refinished, from which the door and trunk cover are likely to be replaced from a donor car, but roof and quarter-panel are definitely to see a good amount of re-shaping, another $2,000 easily by the point it is painted. Add $1,000 for unexpected.
All to all, if owner is ready to give this car up for $400, I would consider contacting the professional body shop for estimates, otherwise, just let it go.
Addition: a friend of mine, who is IT Programmer during the day, had another friend of his (same occupation) kid to overturn his car (Toyota Matrix) an a highway, insurance wrote it off as a loss immediately. Broken windshield, two right side doors heavily dented by car sliding on it, B-pilar slightly pushed in, damage ot the front fender, bumper, hood slightly dented - so it was a “full set” of problems.
He bought scraps for something 3-digit, they put it into garage and started pulling/hammering/etc… It took them around 4 weeks worth of weekends and some evening hours and uncountable number of 6-packs, but it looks decent again, although I pointed they made orange-peel on a couple of spots as they used a paint-gun for the first time in their lives. Not bad and barely noticeable from 5-7 feet.
This vehicle has to have a salvage title , if it does it will need to be inspected after repair to be registered . It will take a lot better repair work than a Do it yourself person can do . Even then getting insurance might be a problem . The amount of money to put this right will buy you a vehicle that is not wrecked.
That was semi-hyperbolic. Yeah, it’s worth more if you’re willing to disassemble it and part it out yourself. If that doesn’t apply, it’s worth $0 to you, because even if you get it for $200 and sell it to the junk yard for $250, was all the time you invested into making the deal and then finding the junk yard to buy it worth your time? That’d be at least 5 hours worth of screwing around, and I dunno about you but I get paid more than 10 bucks an hour.
I don’t see the point in buying a car for book-minus-collision-estimate. In the first place, as they dig into the car they’re almost certain to find more damage than they were aware of in their estimate, and that $1,000 buffer will disappear really fast. You could very easily end up upside-down in this.
Second, assuming everything goes well and you end up paying book value for the car after all the work is done then… Why didn’t you just get a non-wrecked car for book value and not have to worry about imperfect repairs causing leaks, squeaks, and other annoyances?
I would pass on it, especially for $1,800. Something that you should do before you consider buying it is to contact your insurance and ask them 1. If they would insure a salvage title vehicle, and 2. if they would, what would be required to do so…It would be a pity if you drained your bank account on repairing this car, just for it to be unable to be insured
Normally, a totaled car is worth salvage value, even if it still runs and drives. I wouldn’t pay more than $200 for this car, and even then, I’d only use it for parts.
Even after any “repair” that you might be able to do, you will never be able to get a rear window to seal properly. That will allow water to enter the vehicle, pool on the floor panel and other places, and lead to severe rust problems. That rust will degrade the structural integrity of this unit-body vehicle.
I hope you are being facetious about cutting the roof off of this sedan. Because the roof is an integral part of the car’s unitized construction, its structural integrity will be severely weakened if the roof is removed.
Right you are.
This is why I wanted to play a devil’s advocate and provide optimistic arguments, so that we also discuss negative ones.
Overall, unless OP is DIY-er (which seems to be not), this car has no reason to put money/effort into.
If money grew on trees I would advise you against buying and/or putting any money into this car.